Jim Mosur wrote:

Vince

When I made my motor mount for my Rv6 , I first made a firewall from 1/2"
plywood using original vans firewall as pattern, drilled the 6 mounting
holes off pattern , then I marked a thrust line centre off dimension given
on Van's dwg. I then machined up a circular cup out of 6" dia. solid PVC to
fit the centre shaft pulley on the the front ( our back ) of the 13B engine.
I drilled a centre hole thru PVC and the plywood marked thrust line centre
5/16" I think and bolted PVC to the plywood. You then lay wooden firewall on
bench , level it, then pick up 13B by the prop flange with chain block
,assuming you have your PSRU, lower unit until pulley rest in PVC cup, The
motor should stand on its own if you have leveled the firewall properly, you
can now check level fore and aft. & sideways from prop flange.

I would leave
the chain block attached but loose at all times just in case. You can use
any material wood , alum. etc. for cup and of course you should establishe
at what dim. you want your pulley from firewall. Now I had used a standard
Van's conical mount I removed all the central tubing and used only the basic
outside frame tubes complete with the firewall mounting pads. I had bolted
this onto wood firewall before I dropped the engine down onto the cup, then
I only had to cut and weld tubing to the sub. mounts that I had bolted to
the back of engine. Depending on the type of aircraft you are building you
can you can shim in the cup under the edge of pulley for torque offset , I
think Van's required 1/2" for a 320, I had to set mine of to the opposite
side as my prop turns the other way. I hope this helps.

Jim Mosur
RV6 C-GAPF

Jim, I have a question for you. What kind of car owned those radiators
you
have?

Paul Lamar 

 
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