Anderson Ed wrote:

Brian,

Thanks for all the good info and tips.  I have already ordered the Hayes
hi temp coolant "O" rings, dowel "O" rings and oil filter fitting "O"
rings.  The coolant "O" rings sell for $100 a set of four, the dowel and
oil fillter "O" rings for $6.00 a set. I checked and Hayes says not
enough heat at the front cover "O" ring to need a High Performance type.

I asked about the stainless steel strips I found in my coolant "O" ring
grooves and Hayes say that if you use their high performance "O" ring
you not only don't need them, but there is apparently not enough room
with their new "O" rings.  Stated they had designed their "O" rings to
remove the need for the very thin, very long stainless steel strips.

I found out also, from talking with Hayes, that when I mic'ed the rear
rotor housing I apparently did not do it correctly.  The photos I have
seen appear to show them mic'ing the inner most edge, where as Hayes says
you must mic in back of the steel insert and get it on the aluminum part
of the housing as that is what shrinks/distorts.  So I need to go back
out and do that again,  because it mic'ed within limits the way I did it.

Got a mixture of STP and 30 weight engine oil for the assembly
lubricant.

I noticed the EGR passage and I have mine blocked off at the intake
manifold end.  I presume you mean block it off closer to the exhaust
port.

I took photos of the components, should have them back next  week along
with some digitized copies to put on the net. Marv Kaye pointed me
toward a shop that does this by mail and will sent the photos over the
internet. No video thought.  Having no helpers, wrestling with the 200
lb block and all - just did not leave a hand for a video camera.

Good suggestion about the paint.  Right now there is no paint on the
iron housings and the engine sort of looks dull.  Any special prep you
do for the metal other than clean it good??

Not quite certain I understood your comment about the  front stationary
gear needing to come off after you have index it to find the end play.
It would appear that once I bolt it on to the front side housing all the
needle bearings, counterweights, just slide right on the eccentric
shaft.  I know I am suppose to install the pulley bolt and torque it to
specified torque to index the end play and then take it out when I put
on the front cover.  So would appreciate any additional info on why the
front stationary gear needs to come off the front side housing a second
time???

Thanks again for the suggestions and information.  I am looking forward
to getting it together again and will report on progress in a couple of
weeks.

Ed Anderson

 
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