I mocked up the radiator and PSRU this morning in John's Manvill
two inch thick insulation foam. 4' by 8' sheet at Home Depot for
$25

It is important to get the rad right up under the flywheel
to take advantage of the width of most cowls in that area.

A starter mounted under the engine or PSRU will not work.
The best place for the starter seems to be on the exhaust
port side of the engine if you plan on one large rad mounted
under the engine.

BTW Tracy, where is the starter mounted on your PSRU?
 
I was able to get a 20 inch wide 27 inches long two inches
thick rad in the KIS TR-4 cowl. This is about the height
and width of a Ford Mustang rad although the Mustang rad is
only one inch thick. I will try that. If it does not cool
I will add another one inch  Mustang rad on top and run 
the hot water through the back side of the rad first for 
maximum average difference in temperature between air 
and water and  therefore best heat transfer efficiency. 

I will move the motor mount hat section steel cross 
member back a couple of inches on the engine  to facilatate 
installing the rad. Also keep the height of the hat section 
motor mount down to about one inch. 

This is what mockups are for.
 
Pictures in a couple of days.

kiscool2.gif

The rad size shown in this drawing won't fit in the short
KIS TR-4 cowl. I will revise the drawing shortly. The length 
is OK but the width is four inches too wide. The interference
points are at the front corners of the rad.

This size rad might fit in the long KIS TR-4 cowl shipped
with the kit if you specify the IO-360 six cylinder 
Continental engine. You will then have to move the engine 
forward with the Ross or Tracy PSRU. The CG might
be OK for a normally aspirated engine but I am going
with a heavier  turbo engine so I am trying to keep 
the CG of the engine as far back as possible.
 
Paul Lamar
 
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