X-Mozilla-Keys:                                                                                 
Gary C. Buster LPT wrote:

<snip>

BTW how is your Ross gear box holding up Gary?

Dad gum it guys... I was hoping you wouldn't jinx my "magic box"!!!   I have
removed the PSRU about 40 hours ago to rebuild the seals and rotate the
redrive 90 degrees... this allowed the oil drain to be vertical instead of
horizontal.... haven't had a leak yet... but also haven't inspected for
abnormal wear either!!!   I get prop shake at any rpm below 1300 rpm... so I
idle at 1500.   that big prop absorbs a lot of air!!!    Another gyronut
experimented with 2,3,4,5,& 6 blade warp drives on the same set-up and noted
the static pull for each... the 4 and 5 blade props were virtually identical
at 2500 rpm blade speed.    So far I've got a little over 600 hours on this
redrive... another gyronut reports he is over 1100 hours on his
redrive....2.85 ratio... (Steve McGowan in Georgia)

Now for the 64 dollar question... If I keep the RB intake manifold and the
Dellorto DHLA 48, which of the trumpet stacks would provide the optimum beef
at 6-7k engine rpms???  (shorter or longer???)   (sorry Paul, but changing
anything from the carb onwards, isn't a financial option right now!!!)  I'll
do the "PYaw ignition thang" on my next financial investment!!!

BTW... what are you guys doing to heat this thing up to get rid of carb
icing???   should I build a phenol spacer with water porting between the
carb and intake to always run hot H2O through the thing???  Don't like
changing the air temp and messing with the charge mixture!!

Gary C. Buster LPT
gbuster@ballistic.com
Tyler, Texas   

Unfortunately Gary you need hot air in the carb as the ice forms
in the venturi part. You can try the longer horns outboard of the carb
but I think you might need longer spacers between the existing carbs and
the existing manifold. It is hard to say for sure without putting it
on a dyno. Perhaps Paul Yaw knows something about this.

Paul


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