Seems to me a metal blade is a sledge hammer approach to the problem
not to mention the extra weight of PSRU and blades.

Composite props usually require an electro formed compound curved nickel

cuff.

These are quite expensive but a thin stainless cuff could be made and

bonded on.

The trick is welding the 0.016 inch thin SS parts together so they fit
a compound curve prop blade leading edge. Good argument for a straight
taper blade instead. That way the SS cuff can be merely bent and glued on.
(Bill, joa & Perry are you listening?:-))

Rubber or urethane also seems to work. Bonding it on seems to be the

problem.

The blades will have to be routed out for the 0.016 inch thickness of
the cuffs. Perhaps joa can accommodate that in the mold that he is making
on a 3D mill. Bill and Perry are still working on the exact design of the
blades for the ACRE NL CS prop.

Paul Lamar

I agree that a metal prop is probably way overkill for just the rain
resistance.  But, I have finally learned that people perceive things
differently and no amount of reasoning with some of them will change their
minds.  I went ahead with the new design because it accomplished several
other things as well:

1.  Unlimited aerobatics (as opposed to the recreational stuff I do now)
2.  Conventional constant speed prop capability
3.  Reduced time to build the prop shaft assembly (at the price of a more
expensive forging)

I was unwilling to accept higher weight so the larger prop shaft is gun
drilled.

BTW, I have no experience with CS props.  Can anyone here tell me how the
prop is sealed to the hub in order to keep the oil in?

Tracy Crook
rws@altavista.net
www.rotaryaviation.com

A simple O ring Tracy. Just bought one for my C182.

What trick will you use to attach the new prop shaft to the ring gear
bulkhead?

Paul Lamar
 
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