Well, remember, my wings are glued together.  It just don't trust it
at the temperature.  I could be completely wrong, but I frightens
me.

Bill

Bill,

  So what is your recommendation for the radiator plumbing connections if
not the factory stock hose barbs and clamps? Cut off the hose barbs and
weld AN fittings in place (ouch, pricey and heavy)? Weld on the wiggins
fittings that Paul has talked about? I have to admit that I cant quite
visualize what these look like or how they work. (Yes Paul, Ive seen all
the drawings on the ACRE site; just cant quite visualize the real thing. I
guess Im going to have to see one in the flesh). Anyway I'm interested in
your opinion as to how you would do it. So far you've been pretty clear
about how you wouldnt do it.  :-)

  I was actually planning to use ordinary radiator hoses (or maybe a combo
of short hose sections as couplers and aluminum tubing) and OEM style
spring hose clamps. They work for millions of cars so Im not sure what the
problem is with this choice? Frankly Ive never had a problem with a worm
drive clamp either, though I understand the concern with
expansion/contraction cycles so the prudent thing would beem to be to avoid
them. If using regular rad hoses/spring clamps I plan to replace them all
at every other annual.

Mike Wills

Mike,

I do not have a Mazda water pump handy, but assume it is the std beaded
cast pipe designed for a regular automotive radiator hose.  I have not given
water lines a great deal of thought (other than not trusting glue at these
temps).
To some extent it will depend on the fittings on the radiator used.  If you can
find a good source for custom bent aluminum tube with beads formed on the
ends (beads are **MANDATORY**) I think your correct that this would be
a very safe system.

I'd trust formed BEADED hard lines (aluminum) that go from the engine to the
rad with short rubber "couplers", each end with a pair of spring clamps (4 per
coupler).  The hard line needs to be fully restrained with Adel clamps along
its length.  I know this is more difficult than flex lines, but it will be
light
and very reliable.  Welding on the Wiggins couplers shouldn't cost much
compared to the probable cost of the couplers.

I also think that replacing the rubber couplers every other annual would be
prudent.  Every annual is probably overkill.

Upside, aluminum tube will add significant cooling if the lines are of much
length.  Downside, a hard tube can possibly crack, but this is very unlikely
if properly restrained over its length with Adel clamps.  Large diam, long
flex lines may work but be concerned about the suction line collapsing when
warm.  Many cars have springs in the suction line for this reason.

Bill

 
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