James Phillips wrote:

Well Paul this may seem a bit crude but I used the pipe as a breaker
extension. 

Thats what I thought. Situation normal.

I removed the oil pan and clamped the block to my bench. Then I
used a piece of about 1" sq. stock 2-3"s long (it was a home made bucking
bar used to get in some wierd places) and put It between the auto trans
counterweight and one of the case bolt heads to stop E shaft rotation. Then
just applied a lot of force to the pipe. I also did this on one with a
manual flywheel and it worked too.
       The thing I learned from the first one and Bruce's video was leaving
the front bolt in the E-shaft finger-tight until you get the flywheel off.
If you don't the E-shaft will be free to slide back and forth and the spacer
on the front thrust bearing can get out of place. Leaving the bolt in but
loose keeps the spacer and bearings out of harms way during the rest of the
tear down.
   I didn't do this on the first engine. The bearing looks fine but it
seemed like it may have been taking a beating while I struggled with pulling
the counterweight once the rear nut was removed.
I had a much harder time getting the counterweight pulled off the shaft
then anything else. On my second engine the flywheel practically jumped off
the shaft .     James Phillips

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