harley.dixon@juno.com wrote:

Paul...

You could take the top off the air cleaner and spray

some water in the carb while the engine is warmed up and running at
moderate RPM and see if a lot of black smoke comes out <<

I'd like to..but, its fuel injected. Where do I spray?  Directly into the
throttle chamber, or will the air flow sensor and/or air temperature
sensor affect the running if I disconnect the inlet too far upstream?
Maybe I should just remove the air filter and spray it into the inlet at
that point.

Opps. I don't think anybody has tried spraying water into the 
mass airflow sensor. One could always try. 

Use an empty 409 bottle to spray the water.<<

I have an empty spray bottle around here someplace...I assume you mean to
use the spray bottle to regulate the water going in.  About how much flow
might be too much?  When the engine stalls?

Yes.

The real fix is to take it apart, clean it up and at least put new

O-rings in it.<<

I will get to that eventually anyway...I was hoping that I could keep
running the car until either the body finally falls apart, or I'm ready
to stick the engine in my plane.  I may be getting some earlier than
expected experience on tearing one of these down,

The problem doesn't occur frequently enough...yet...that I feel I must do
something as time consuming as rebuilding it, but, if I must, I must.

Also check your EGR valve. Could be stuck open.<<

Would this cause a problem that is as intermittent as this is?  Wouldn't
it be more prevalent if that was the case?  Still getting over 20th with
it...

It contributes to the gunk in the engine and may not cause the
problem directly.

If you are not in a state that checks smog you might want to disable

EGR. <<

Not yet here in New York, but they're talking about it...and when they do
(they're saying in a couple of years) I may have the RX-7 off the road
anyway.

Any easy tricks on disabling the EGR? Just be sure the actuator is free,
and then unplug the solenoid?

I think you should remove it and bolt a plate over the opening. 
I'll need to check the manual. Later today.

Also disable the injection pump and start mixing two cycle oil with the

gas. <<

I've been thinking about that, too...now may be a good time to
experiment....
Is that what the Haynes manual describes as the "metering oil pump"? If
so, there are four injectors...two to the housings, and two to the intake
manifold.  My metering pump is of the mechanical variety, not electrical,
so, disconnecting the operating rod at the throttle lever should suffice,
but this would also remove the oil to the housings.  Do I need oil to the
housings and not just the manifold, or would the 2-cycle take care of
that too? 

It does the complete job. I would take it off and bolt a plate over 
the hole.   

If necessary, I could remove just the lines for the manifold
at the metering pump and plug the holes with a bolt...leaving the two for
the housing still functioning.   The lines appear to be attached to the
pump with banjo-like fittings.

Without taking the time to look up the messages that I saved can you tell
me off the top of your head what 2-cycle oil has been determined to be a
good choice?  I still have some sitting around here, but I can't recall
what brand.  And what mix ratio has been found to be ideal?

Everybody seems to have their preferences but I suspect any two cycle
oil for air cooled engines works well. One once per gallon of gas but 
up to four ounces per gallon does not seem to hurt.

Thanks loads...

Harley

 
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