<< Jeff Spitzer wrote:
 > >>  >
 > >>  > This looks like a classic case of inlet cavitation. >>
 > >>
 > >> Thanks, Jeff.  That's not what I wanted to hear, but would rather hear
 > >> it now than later.  I was under the impression that I had about 14 psi
 > >> (absolute) inlet pressure during the test, and would have (at s/l) 15
 > >> psi plus the radiator system pressure on the inlet side, thereby,
 > >> reducing the probability of cavitation.  Hadn't considered the temp
 > >> effect.
 > >>
 > >> Any suggestions for an easy mod to improve the inlet side?
 > >>
 > >> Thanks, again.
 > >>
 > >> Bob Darrah >>

Lehanover wrote:

I think you already found your fix. The restrictor on the outlet side of the
pump. I have a 5/8" restrictor on the water outlet of my engine to increase
the pressure inside the block and eliminate cavitation. I use Mazda
Competition pulleys. 3.540" and 5.120" for about a .691:1 underdrive. The
driver shifts as close to 9,500 RPM as possible. The water pump is turning
6,564 RPM. On upshifts the engine slows to 8,500 RPM and the pump then to
5,873 RPM. This is the range you are looking for. We do not overheat the
coolant. We do have one large oil cooler in the pressure loop and two in the
scavenge loop. We like the oil to stay below 200 degrees.

Lynn E Hanover

 
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