What you are saying Jeff is there have been about two  million rotary
Mazda's made
with lots of air in the coolant and it was pumped and cooled like crap. I
find that
a bit hard to swallow. No stock Mazda that I know about has a separator

tank.

Here is a picture of a second gen RX7 13B pressure cap on the thermostat
housing
and rad return pipe. Exactly like my modified pump except mine is about
four inches lower. I think you are forgetting the idle mode. When the

engine

idles
the flow is very low and the bubbles get a chance to rise to the high spot
and go out the pressure cap valve to the overflow tank.

Maybe so.  The coolant only leaves the cap when the system is heating up.
Usually the water is moving when it is heating up.  Moving water entrains
air.  So some aerated water will be expelled and pure water returned on
each heat/cool cycle.  So maybe it only takes a few weeks to get most of
the air out.  I think that Mazda and many other car manufacturers figure
whats a few weeks compared to the years that people leave their cooling
system intact.  Add a sight glass to your setup and find out for yourself.

Jeff Spitzer

Well I can use some of that 1-1/4 ID  transparent hose sold in Home Depot
to connect rad to pump and see what it looks like on the dyno.

Paul Lamar

Not if you plan to get it hot you can't.  That tygon type stuff gets reeaal
soft at 200 deg.  Mcmaster sells nice sight glasses for pretty cheap.

Jeff Spitzer

If it burst or swells up I can shut down the engine. I also think I can buy
1-3/8 inch plexi turbing. I'll check the Mcmaster cat.

Paul Lamar
 
The Aircraft Rotary Engine Newsletter.              Powered by Linux.

http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/            http://www.linux.org