Hi Paul;
       Great job of testing. Did you try
flexing/wiggling the assy. while under pressure? (Under
cold water of course -:) The coupling will be
experiencing this in our application.
"LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE A WINNER THERE PAUL CONGRATS"!!

Just drop the flag and I'll release them for fabrication
according to the ACAD drawings I sent you. Last chance
for any additions/deletions.......(PRESSURE -:)

                                Butch Diaz Sr.

The pressure tends to straighten them out so they are hard to wiggle.
I have no doubt that that will work however. The O-rings are working
very well as advertised. The tube shown is thicker than the tube 
actually used to transfer coolant.

BTW I think I figured out how to fix the pin hole leak. A little surgery
with a tiny stone in a Dremel tool making a tiny lake in the aluminum ferrule 
and then filling the lake with a drop of low viscosity epoxy should 
take care of that pin hole leak. Identify the leak by using a drop
of ink on the other end of the ferrule where the leak becomes obvious
when the assembly is pressure checked under water. The ink will leak 
down and mark the inside of the joint. Drill a tiny hole to help the epoxy
flow into the leak and remove traces of the ink.  This takes 
longer to explain than to actually do. Hopefully lower viscosity
epoxy and a longer ferrule will make leaks unlikely and this procedure
unnecessary. I will experiment more when Butch sends me a couple of 
extra, longer ferrules.

I might try heating this one in an 500 degree oven and see if I can
separate the ferrule from the tube. It will be a good test of
JB Weld's claim of good to 600 degrees. :-)

Also I forgot to mention the worm hose clamp works great to hold the
split clamps together.

BTW it might be a good idea Butch to make extra ferrules in case they are 
damaged in assembling or somebody decides to start over and make a new
coolant tube  assembly.

The flag is dropped. I release them for production with the one inch 
long ferrules Butch. 


Paul Lamar
 
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