tommayer wrote:

Paul, Bill,
    Is Lenkite BS too?  I've been using it, at unsemmly cost, as a
prophalactic against valve sticking in Lycs and P&Ws, and have not have any
trouble since using it, but I keep thinking that's just how the ball has
bounced for 1500 hours or so.  Tom Mayer

I am sure glad we don't have exhaust valves in rotaries :-)
Paul Lamar

Yes, Linkite is pure Bullshit as well.....

The only thing you can do to help prevent engine seizure after loss of oil
pressure (besides turning off the ignition) is to boots the level of the
anti-skuff / gall agents (Zinc dialkidilithophosphate ?sp? (ZDDP)) in the oil
prior to oil loss. Also BTW remember that the newest oil formulations will have
vastly reduced ZDDP levels to comply with the EPA's (bastards) newest mandates to
help extend the life of catalytic converters (zinc poisons them slowly).

So in a nutshell you are boned...... or maybe not...???

Hop on down to the local store and purchase a bottle of STP FOR NEW CARS ( not
the old standard mix ). This mix will restore your ZDDP levels beyond even the
old oil's formulation. Not snake oil, just simple chemistry. I mix it with Mobil
1 15w-50 and run it in all my engines (including my 1998 Triumph Tiger) and it
works very well.

Oh, for those whiners who say that synthetic oils "killed my engine" that is a
load of crap.... (sorta)... Since they have such a higher detergent action for
organics (!NOT LEAD!) like normal black gook in an engine, they will actually
float it off passages and cause oil starvation and ultimately engine destruction.
Next time try it on a clean engine.

Full synthetics are far superior than dino-juice in all physical aspects. FACT!

Just don't run your Lycoming on them - Semi-Synthetics are ok - because the lead
is not dispersed as in the normal crap when using 100LL.

If you have and Auto Fuel STC I see no reason why not to switch back to full
synthetic - provided your engine is clean internally...

Later
Blake
Cozy Mk4 Plans #0008

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