Ed Anderson wrote:
Hi Folks,
Just finished putting the 91 Turbo back together. Ed Heishmann, a
Florida welder recommended by Charlie Kuss, did an excellent job on my
new
oil pan. It was returned anodized in colors that were a close match to
my
paint job. Thanks Ed and Charlie.
Turning the engine over with jumper cables the compression on the front
rotor was 100-115 psi, the rear rotor was 110-120 psi. So things look
very
good at this point. More compression that I have ever measured on a
rotary,
best my old engine had was 90 psi. For those of you interested here is a
summary of mods and things.
1. Side housings are new
2. Rotor housings are the ones that came with the J91 Turbo II as are
stationary gears, front cover and oil pump
3. Two piece, two spring apex seals were used similar (if not the same)
as
Hurley's seals
4. Hayes High Performance "O" rings were used for inner coolant seal,
stock
for the outer seal
5. Viton oil control "O" rings were used vice Mazda Stock
6. I street ported the center housing using template from Mazdatrix
(gotta
be careful not to cut into the water galley - I did that practicing on an
old housing, glad I had it to practice on!)
7. I grooved the coolant chambers around the spark plugs on the rotor
housings for better cooling
8. Plugged the EGR holes from the Exhaust sleeve to remove source of hot
air to the manifold
9. Installed the injector diffuser screens on all injectors
10. Installed 89-91 High Compression (9.7:1) rotors that I got from
Bruce
Turrentine
11. Used the 91 front and rear counterweights to match lighter weight of
89-91 NA rotors
12. Reused 86 eccentric shaft as it had the oil control springs and
balls
removed and Weber jets installed
13. Reused Turbo II oil pump I had on 86 as it showed no wear and
provided
80 psi of oil pressure.
14. Removed stock oil pressure regulator and installed 85 psi regulator
previously used on 86
15. Replaced eccentric shaft thermal pellet and used Mazdatrix machined
aluminum fitting.
16. Side seal/corner seal clearance was kelp between .0015 and .0025"
which
is tighter than Mazda calls for, but which several books recommend for
better compression.
Reviewed Bruce's video and checklist developed from it and used the
Haynes
manual. Bruce's video does so take the angst out of the process. Thanks
Bruce!
Right now, I am taking the opportunity to clean up under the cowl and
have
integrated the coolant header tank, coolant overflow tank and air/oil
separator into a unit that attaches to the oil pan which has a much lower
fitting for oil return from the Ross drive.
Will send some photos when I get them back.
Should have the engine reinstalled within a week or two
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
Jim M wrote:
Hi Ed
Glad to hear you got your pan back, sounds like its pretty. What are these
EGR holes you were Plugging in the exhaust and what does EGR stand for?
Neil and I found out why my V belts came adrift. We discovered today that
the water pump was jamming. I removed the water pump pulley and found a
broken hunk of a 6 MM bolt jammed between the inside of the double top hat
pulley and the casting , it had been rattling around in there since day one.
I guess someone in its other life had sheared one of the pulley bolts and
never looked for the broken piece. So it looks like it was not a $6.00 v
belt that has cost me 2 grand but a 10 cent bolt.
I'll keep you posted when my engine comes back.
Jim Mosur
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