"Bass, Jerry" wrote:
I have had a coolant problem since I got this engine back from
Turintine.
It
would bubble out of the block as I came back from flying.
I added stop leak and have been flying since.
It did boil over on one 90 degree day, but I took the bonnet off and it
cooled right down.
I will send the block back to Bruce soon.
Jerry, What do your rad ducts look like? Got any pictures of the rad
ducts?
Are you using cowl flaps? What does the outlet area look like?
Is there a radius on the firewall near the outlet area?
Paul Lamar
"Bass, Jerry" wrote:
The inlet ducts expand as they go towards the face of the Radiator. Not
as
smooth as your 109 drawing, however. I did increase the size of the lower
hole from what you see to 3" dia round. I feel if the Lyc, can get enough
air from those upper holes for 180 hp, then I should be able to get enough
air to my rotary. No I do not have a Burn, in front of the air outlet.
The air outlet is very important, as I had very high engine compartment
temps until I closed the crack below the outlet. Once the crack was
closed,
the Temps came back down.
By the way, the Rads are in Parallel. One Rad feeds from the top, and I
will change it to the bottom.
Jerry Bass
So I take it the cooling is fine now?
BTW I think the intake area needs to be larger
with those thick evap cores than what the 180 HP Lyc needs. With thinner
cores
just as Jim Mosure is using on his RV6 shown in this pricture then the Lyc
size
holes would be OK.
Paul Lamar
"Bass, Jerry" wrote:
I can increase the inlet size. I would like to make them round like the
newer sleek plastic airplanes. Did Tracy? The photo shown is from the
Haynes manual, and they do not show the output and input of the water pump.
I have one Evap core feeding from the bottom, and the other from the top.
It looks like the RX7 feeds the rad to its top and draws off the bottom.
this will keep the block full. If my evap cores are side tanked, will it
matter if I use the top or bottom?
Jerry Bass
Tracy just chopped out a bigger hole and it looks like ^%&* :-)
I don't don't think it matters Jerry. The bottom line is the mass of
air you can force through those radiators in a given period of time.
At 100 MPH the max air pressure you can expect is 26 pounds per square foot
or about .18 psi. Usually it is only 80% of this pressure or about .14 psi.
As you can see it is not much. The trick the automobile companies and the
heating and air conditioner makers came up with is make the radiators larger
in area but thinner. It then took less pressure to get the air to flow through
the rads. Look under the hood in any modern car and you will probably see a
radiator only one inch thick. Look in any modern air conditioner/furnace
and you will see several thin heat exchangers folded up into a V or W
configuration. Same reason.
Here is another picture of a similar successful implementation to cool a V8 engine
in a Lancair IV. I think you might have problems if you fly to a hotter
climate and or you take full advantage of the 200 HP potential of your
engine and 2.85:1 PSRU. You might want to think about changing to this
configuration.
Paul Lamar
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