Perry Mick wrote:

OK it all makes sense now.  I removed the rads this morning, both
main rads were plugged!  My plane was cooling only by the 1x3x9
cabin heat cooler plumbed from the heater port.  It's amazing it
worked as well as it did.

BTW, I think this is a good safety feature, especially if you have
a thermostat.  The heater port is a good thermostat bypass for
backup.  Even with a thermostat my plane tended to run very
cool because the heater port was always in use.

I think what happened is since my rads are the bottom of the
system, the Barsleak junk settled to the bottom and plugged the
rads.

I remember Paul remarking how well my rads were cooling.
Well, actually they weren't cooling at all!  The one side was
hot because it was near the heater rad return near the pump
inlet, and the other side was cold because there was nothing
flowing through there!

Live and learn, it just gives me the opportunity to put in the
improvements I had already been planning for some time.

Paul wrote:

I meant "how well they were cooling before they were plugged" :-)

To be completely fair to the Bars Leak kind of stuff the instructions
said not to use it with ANY anti freeze. I don't think we were
completely successful in purging all the antifreeze from Perry's
cooling system before we put that stuff in.

Actually the stuff may be fine, but my rads are only 8 little 1/4 inch
tubes serpentining back and forth.  Probably much easier to plug
than a normal car rad. The rads being horizontal on the bottom didn't
help.
I think my new rad will be a big improvement.

With a few minor aerodynamic improvements and cowl flaps I think

Perry's

engine will cool fine with a 12 by 14 by 2 rad plus his heater
core. 336 plus 27 cubic inches for a grand total of only 363
cubic inches core volume. Since Chuck Dunlap is making progress
improving his 530 cubic inch system things are looking
up. FINALLY! Measure those cowl pressures folks!

--
Perry J. Mick
Duckt N7XR
http://www.ductedfan.com

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