<<  If the engine when run hard
 > in racing, such as Lynn's. is using a thermostat, then, I reason, the
 > lines probably don't need larger area than that provided by  the open
 > thermostat.   By the way, I could keep the 1.25" hoses if I could get
 > comfortable with hose clamps.  Earl's make a beautiful, super
 > flexible water hose with ends set  up for two hose clamps. --Jerry
  >>

-- 

All of the coolant leaving my engine goes through a 5/8" hole in a plate over
the water outlet. This is the smallest hole in the path. The object is to
keep coolant pressure inside the block very high. I noticed once while
dynoing an MGB engine with a restrictor in it that the water pressure in the
block at high RPMs (for an MGB)  was over 40 PSI. Idea? With a bit of
antifreeze added I could get the boiling point above 260 degrees. No steam
pockets between the center two exhaust valves. No more cracked heads. The
thermostat is an American style mounted where the stock Mazda thermostat was
normally located. 

It seems to me that using small lines in the run from the
pump to the radiator is of no consequence. I would use a full sized line from
the radiator to the suction side of the pump to reduce the chance of boiling
the coolant in low pressure. In my opinion, the water hoses should be very
flexible if the engine is allowed to move around. The aluminum around the
outside of the inlet and outlet tubes weld bead on the radiator will crack
through if subjected to movement. Also the radiator should be mounted in
rubber standoffs, or supported in foam lined cradles. The radiator is very
heavy when full of coolant, and when stiff tabs are used to mount one in a
rigid fashion, the tabs break off, or the welds crack the tank aluminum. Been
there, done that.
Lynn E. Hanover

 
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