Subject: Ross gear box
From: ACRE NL
Date: 8/22/2001, 10:08 PM


Finn,
Does your Ross gear box look like this?
You never know.

If so perhaps you could put a 1/2 AL plate in front
of the seal between part 3 and part 11 to take the
thrust bearing load and make a new 1/2 inch longer shaft.
You would also need longer studs or bolts to hold
the whole thing together.

Paul Lamar

A good idea if I needed a new shaft anyway. One problem is it leaves very
little space for the thrust bearing and pin, only 13mm (unless I counterbore
into the plate). The thrust bearing Tracy is using is 12 mm thick, leaving no
space for the pin. I wish I knew how thin that pin can be and minimum edge
distance from pin to planet gear teeth and from pin to thrust bearing. I'd
also like to know how much force the bearing applies to the plate (how thin I
can make it).

Finn


The plate can be as thick as needed and counter bored.
I am sure all the torque is not transmitted by that pin alone. I think
the gear is welded to the shaft.

Paul Lamar

I'm sure it's NOT welded.

If the ID of sun gear really is 1.440" then it's probably freeze/heat shrunk onto
the shaft (I measured the shaft as 1.441").

As I don't have the tools to counterbore the plate (whether mounted front or rear)
I'll probably have to get a machine shop make it for me, and they can then also
machine the bulkhead. (I'm still not ruling out buying end mills and doing it in my
old drill press).

That just plain won't work Finn. Tried that many times over the years
and the mill will dig in and destroy your bell housing. Don't try it!!!

Come on Paul, please tell me you have a buyer for my Ross drive :)

Finn

With all the trouble we have had I think every body is gun shy on Ross boxes.
You  would have to own a machine shop to buy it :-) In that case $1500 would
be a bargain as It is not that hard to fix.

Paul Lamar
 
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