"Perry J. Mick" wrote:

Paul:

I think I'm going with your new design when I redo my
engine mount, because I  won't have to modify the
airframe at all, and I think the engine won't move as
much with this mount because the rubber is closer to
the engine.

These drawings show the correct Rutan thrustline.
I had to move the left mount slightly forward otherwise
it would interfere with the rear oil port on the engine.
The one on the right needs to go rearward to avoid
the exhaust, so the two are about 1" apart longitudinally.

There were two rotary powered airplanes at Tillamook
today, Ken Welter was arriving at the museum as I
was leaving.

What are you going to hang the duct on?

The engine, same as now.

Have you run across Jim Wilhaer and his rotary powered Murphy Rebel?
He recently moved to the Portland area?

Not yet, but I've recently met Mike McGee, Aurora, and Lonnie Wood,
Coos Bay.  I think there's an ultralight flying around MMV with the
German  Wankel in it.

What do you think of how I tied the front rubber mount to the
1x1.5 inch rectangular tubes?  It's in the top view.

--
Perry Mick
Duckt N7XR
http://www.ductedfan.com

Last time I talked to the guy with the German wankel in an Ultra Bibe
he sent it back to Germany for repair and never saw it again. That was 
at the Arlington flyin this year.

Ops I forgot to send that one. Here it is.
Hey that's pretty simple. That will work for a lot of motor mount designs.
For those that may not be aware of what Perry is doing here
is he is taking Tracy's idea one step further and expanding the
antifoaming 1/4 inch thick plate forward (in this case) to make a 
front motor mount bracket. Simple! Good idea Perry. Brace that biped
or use a piece of rectangular tubing between the upright rectangulars
to take the front mount load in bending. You might have to extend the
anti-foaming plate a bit further but that should be no problem
as the main rubber bushings are pretty close to the CG of engine
prop and duct.

Paul Lamar
 
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