Hello:
I bought a 1990 RX7 with a 13B fuel injection. The motor has about 20,000 on it. It had no compression on one rotor, the shop said when I bought it, and it wouldn't idle on it's own. An old lady drove it round town, and then she left it sit for about six months over winter. I put two cans of 5 minute oil flush in the oil, and let it run at idle, off and on over about a week, then changed the oil. That didn't work, to unstick the apex seals, so I dumped two cans of SEAFOAM in the gas tank, and then drove it around off and on for a week. It finally started to idle on it's own. I haven't done a new compression check yet. Then I dumped some 2 cycle oil into the gas tank, 100:1 ratio and let it run, and then took it out for a long hard drive. When I parked it, I reved it up, and then let it go to idle, where it died, and then it wouldn't restart. A hot catlitic converter light came on when it died. It cranks, but doesn't seem to fire. I have a full tank of gas, new plugs, new!

 b!

attery. It turns over good, but doesn't seem to fire. Do I need to unhook the factory oil injection? How do I do that? Could I have a dirty fuel filter account of all the cleaners I dumped in the gas tank? I also filled the tank with gasahol. Any ideas? I don't have any manuels/books on this yet car/motor. I do plan, to pull this motor eventually and have this rebuilt for a kit plane, but for now I just want to use it in the car.

Rich Gillen

The high cat temperature light came on because the engine wasn't fully running on both rotors. The excess fuel goes into the cat where it will cause the cat to overheat and melt. This is not a rotary-specific problem. Any catalytic converter-equipped car runs this risk if all cylinders aren't firing. Once the cat has melted down, the exhaust restriction will be really high. You might get the engine to idle and run at really low speeds, but even then it will probably stall after a short while.

Jon L.

 
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