Hello:
I bought a 1990 RX7 with a 13B fuel injection. The motor has about
20,000 on it. It had no compression on one rotor, the shop said when I
bought it, and it wouldn't idle on it's own. An old lady drove it round
town, and then she left it sit for about six months over winter. I put two
cans of 5 minute oil flush in the oil, and let it run at idle, off and on
over about a week, then changed the oil. That didn't work, to unstick the
apex seals, so I dumped two cans of SEAFOAM in the gas tank, and then drove
it around off and on for a week. It finally started to idle on it's own. I
haven't done a new compression check yet. Then I dumped some 2 cycle oil
into the gas tank, 100:1 ratio and let it run, and then took it out for a
long hard drive. When I parked it, I reved it up, and then let it go to
idle, where it died, and then it wouldn't restart. A hot catlitic converter
light came on when it died. It cranks, but doesn't seem to fire. I have a
full tank of gas, new plugs, new b!
attery. It turns over good, but doesn't seem to fire. Do I need to unhook
the factory oil injection? How do I do that? Could I have a dirty fuel
filter account of all the cleaners I dumped in the gas tank? I also filled
the tank with gasahol. Any ideas? I don't have any manuels/books on this yet
car/motor. I do plan, to pull this motor eventually and have this rebuilt
for a kit plane, but for now I just want to use it in the car.
Rich Gillen
Is this a turbo Rich?
Sounds more serious than a stuck seal but I could be wrong.
I don't think the two cycle oil had anything to do with it.
You don't need to disable the oil injection pump when
you add two cycle oil to the gas.
You need to do a compression check. It is really easy to do if you take
the
schader valve out of a cheap compression checker. As you turn the engine
over
with the compression checker in the lower spark plug hole you should see
the same
amplitude pulses on the gage needle. Three pulses per rotor is a complete
check. Let us know if the amplitudes are not all the same and what are the
approximate
numbers you see.
If the compression is OK you have another coincidental problem.
Paul Lamar
Pull the plugs and put a tablespoonful of transmission oil in each rotor.
Disable the fuel pump and with the plugs out turn the motor over several
times then let set for a day or so. Crank it over with out fuel and then
put the plugs in and fire her up. Lots of smoke but it may free the seals.
Other people on the Rotary list have had success with this and it seemed to
work for me.
Jim Brewer
This is a non-turbo FI engine. I bought it from a foreign car repair/shop, used car /sales for $500.
They did the compression test on the motor and said one rotor had no compression. They, had
never heard of putting transmission fliud in the spark plug holes. They tried that after I told them
about it. I don't think they waited very long for it to work. I didn't give them all my secerts, :) I
wanted to buy the car cheap.They had been servicing the car for the lady. They had all the info
on what had been done to it in their computer. They had put a new engine in it around 20,000-25,000
miles ago. I don't remember exactly, but I think it was 22,856, close enough.
On taking out this schader valve on the compression tester, do I want to pull out all four plugs or
just the bottom ones for the test? I can carry that with me to work on the train. I'm working on this car
out of town right now, 200 miles away from home, in a gravel parking lot, so I'm limited on what I can
do to it right now. And I'm a fat boy so I can't even slide under it. :)
I'm a Chevy V-8 fan, so these rotarys are new to me. No, manuels yet. I know it has to have an electric
fuel pump, with the fuel injection. How do I disable the electric fuel pump as you suggest? I still have to find
the fuse panel in this also, to check all the fuses. Any clues? Thanks for the help.
Rich Gillen
Sounds like who ever rebuilt the engine did a bad job. There are some charlatans
around rebuilding Mazda engines. It is easy to screw up when you
install the apex and other seals. Where do you live?
$500 is a real steal. Out here in So Cal it would be worth up to $4000.
Just the bottom plugs Rich. The Haynes manuals are available in Pep Boys and other
auto parts stores. It helps to have one.
One fuse box is inside the kick panel on the drivers side below the dash.
Another is under the hood just in front of the left side strut tower.
The sure fire way to disable the fuel pump is disconnect it at the connector
on the back side of the left shock tower. There may be an easier way as
there is a relay somewhere that controls it. The fuel pump itself
is in the tank under an access panel.
Paul Lamar
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