Wrathall Mark wrote:
BTW, Proseal is just a trade name for the generic Polysulfide which
was
mentioned in other posts. You will recognize it in use because when
the two
parts are mixed it smells like a cross between cat crap and rotten
eggs.
The low viscosity brush on variety should be ideal for fixing
fiberglass
leaks.
Tracy Crook
tcrook@rotaryaviation.com
www.rotaryaviation.com
FYI,
ProSeal comes in various viscosities & cure times. The thin "brush on"
type referred to by Tracy is type A. Next is type C. This is recommended
for sealing ribs to skins, etc. Last is type B (which Van's supplies with
their kits) Type B is recommended for fillets and sealing large gaps. The
cure times range from 1/2 hour to 24 hours. Sooo.... the can will read
something like
A-2
meaning it is the thinnest viscosity and has a working life of 2 hours. I
should mention that the working life is extremely dependent on ambient
temperature. These products have a limited shelf life (9-12 months at room
temps). You can easily double the shelf life if you store them in a
refrigerator when not in use.
You can also "thin" your ProSeal by mixing it with MEK. (Man I wish
Van's
would supply C instead of B!!) Surface cleanliness isn't the only thing
with ProSeal, it's EVERYTHING!
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
Mark wrote:
Just to add to Charlies summary. PR-1422 ( The most common one) contains all
sorts of nasty chemicals with will kill you in long slow painful ways. I got
to the Strontium bit in the data sheet and figured I'd rather not know. Use
gloves, in a well ventilated area, and don't throw this evil crap in the
house hold rubbish where it will be dumped in a field near you house to
leach back into the ground water, poisoning your kids.
To make really nice beads with it, use masking tape either side of the bead,
apply it with an ice block stick, the use either really really soapy water
(wet soap) or lots of spit to smooth it with your gloved finger. No
different to Silicon that. It is also a prettty good adhesive.
Mark Wrathall
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