Marc Wiese wrote:

  I just wanted to see if many of you agreed with this advice on Mazda

 Competition's web site:
 "If you are using a stock (cast-iron) water pump, we recommend "gutting"
 the stock thermostat, leaving just the thermostat casing. Because some
 "restriction" is helpful, generally removing the thermostat is not as
 effective as using a gutted thermostat or restrictor. It is also
 important to plug the thermostat housing's water bypass. This can be
 done very easily by tapping the hole (1/2" pipe tap) and installing a
 plug."<<
 You plan on using the remnants of the thermostat, Paul, or running wide
 open, just using the cowl flaps?
 Marc Wiese

I think you get the same benefit running a 20 or 24  psi pressure cap
without the pump HP loss in the restrictor. I always thought
a restrictor to up the pressure in the block and the pump was a dumb idea.
And of course closing down the cowl flaps at cruise speed lowers the cooling
drag.
Paul Lamar

Hi Guy

 Would increasing the pressure in the system do two thing's, one raise the boil temp of the water and reduce pump efficeicy.

Yes on the boiling temp but I think it would raise pump efficiency by
doing away with the flow restriction.

Would it not be better to reduce all loss in  pump flow and control our temp's through air control through air flaps.
I think this is easier.
Regards Don Dunbar

Yes I agree Don.
Paul Lamar

Hi again all,

As I see it any restiction in the system should only be to reduce max flow of water throught the at full RPM or max  HP so the water flow does not exceed  say 7ft per second.

What is the flow rate of the 13B and of velocity in a 13B cooling system?
Regards Don

We have no idea Don. We think the pump is pumping about 35 gallons per hour as
I recall.

Paul Lamar
 
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