Marc Wiese wrote:

 I just wanted to see if many of you agreed with this advice on

Mazda

Competition's web site:
"If you are using a stock (cast-iron) water pump, we recommend

"gutting"

the stock thermostat, leaving just the thermostat casing. Because

some

"restriction" is helpful, generally removing the thermostat is not as
effective as using a gutted thermostat or restrictor. It is also
important to plug the thermostat housing's water bypass. This can be
done very easily by tapping the hole (1/2" pipe tap) and installing a
plug."<<

You plan on using the remnants of the thermostat, Paul, or running

wide

open, just using the cowl flaps?
Marc Wiese

I think you get the same benefit running a 20 or 24  psi pressure cap
without the pump HP loss in the restrictor. I always thought
a restrictor to up the pressure in the block and the pump was a dumb

idea.

And of course closing down the cowl flaps at cruise speed lowers the

cooling

drag.
Paul Lamar

Hi Guy

 Would increasing the pressure in the system do two thing's, one raise

the boil temp of the water and reduce pump efficeicy.

Yes on the boiling temp but I think it would raise pump efficiency by
doing away with the flow restriction.

Would it not be better to reduce all loss in  pump flow and control our

temp's through air control through air flaps.

I think this is easier.
Regards Don Dunbar

Yes I agree Don.

Paul Lamar

With no internal thermostat, isn't it going to be difficult to get the
engine(and the cabin) up to operating temp in sub freezing weather?

    Dave

Not if you close the cowl flaps. No harder than it is to get a Cessna 182
up to takeoff temp. You are thinking cars where you drive off at 30 mph
and 20 HP. In an airplane, at full power takeoff, the engine damn soon
warms up fast!

Paul Lamar
 
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