Leave the plate as is for now Blake. I can cut it on the bandsaw.
We still don't have a final answer on the bolt hole locations. Jerry
has my drilling jig and is looking into it.
What is happening there Jerry?
Paul Lamar
Tomorrow, Danny and I are getting together to nail down the bolt hole
locations which were slightly off from the CAD drawings. We also will
be setting up to make the Barry Isolater holders and the plate stand
off spacers. The whole package will be available by May. Jerry
OK Paul, no problem.
Now for the not-so-good news....
Took home the camera from work and took some shots of the plate before the last cut
was made. Done!
Blake
Nice work Blake. I can't tig weld 1/2 inch with only 150 amps so if you can get
that done there that will solve the problem. Send it to me and I will use
my current plate on the engine to match drill the holes and make another accurate
drawing in the process. Don't send it til after I get back from Sun & Fun.
Paul Lamar
Thanks Paul. The Plate does look mighty trick!
The welding wont be a problem. We have Friday off at "Slap and Whip Me" (P&W :) and I'll
hit up my friend who has a 300A Tig. ('More power big Botey!' - classic Buckaroo Bonzai)
Now to the price:
I think $400, pocketed plate, with the central 12 holes when we figure out where they
actually are... Or $500 with the starter hole, all other drilled holes, back side counter
bore for the shaft seal, and the curved upper 7.7" radius cut out (straight cuts by the end
user from there - MUCH easier to cut with a saw!). Subtract $100 if you ship me a 14.25"
High X 27" Wide (this dimension can be modified) X .500" THK plate made from 6061 aluminum.
Now do people want flat bottomed or sculpted bottoms in the pockets?
Blake
Are you talking about the 1/4 inch holes that Tracy bolts his psru on with?
If so I would guess they start at +15 degrees on a 5.875 bolt circ. dia..
Is that correct Tracy? See the gif. Angle not critical.
Flat bottoms are OK from a stress point of view.
Paul Lamar
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