> > > > > > > Tom Kendall wrote:
  > > > > > > > >
  > > > > > > > > I can't seem to get the stationary gear for the
  middle rotor out of
  > > > > my
  > > > > > > > > intermediate housing (doesn't apply to 13Bs...
  one of those unique 3
  > > > > rotor
  > > > > > > > > problems).
  > > > > > > > >
  > > > > <Snip>
  > > >
  > > > > > > Tom,
  > > > > > > Why do you want to remove it?  When I bebuilt my
  20B, I saw no reason to
  > > > > remove it.
  > > > > > > Don Mitchell
  > > >
  > > > > I dunno Don.  I've got this funny thing about taking
  stuff apart.  Have
  > > > > since I was a kid.  Drove my parents nuts.
  > > > >
  > > > > Actually, it makes it much easier to clean the housing,
  inspect for warpage,
  > > > > and to inspect the gear & babbit in the bearing.  I also
  didn't know but
  > > > > what there was some kind of O-ring or gasket in the
  joint that needed
  > > > > replacement.  There isn't.  Got it all apart now.
  > > > >
  > > > > Tom Kendall

  > > > Hey Tom,
  > > > How did you split your e-shaft?  I built a e-shaft
  splitter.  Several people have contacted me requesting a drawing
  of it, but unfortunately, my drawing skills are worse than my
  handwriting stills.  I'm a Physician, not an engineer!!!
  Anyway, if you built a splitter and can draw, I know several
  people would appreciate a drawing.  I posted pics previously but
  it didn't seem to help.
  > > > Thanks,
  > > > Don Mitchell

  > Don
  > I sure would like to see the pictures of the splitter.
  > Royce

  Here they are.

  Paul Lamar

- - - - - - -
Paul,
Thanks for providing the pics that I sent you previously.  A few comments:

1)  The long section is standard allthread and way too long in the pics.  It can be cut off 3-4 inches after the thick metal plate steel once the puller has been final fitted to the e-shaft.  I think 12-14 inches in length for this part is more than enough.

2)  the coupler connects the allthread to a standard grade 8 bolt.  I cut the head off the bolt and had a machine shop turn it down and cut the appropiate size threads on that end.  It threads into the side of the main bearing boss.  If you look at your e-shaft after removing the end plate and rotor housing #1, you will see the threaded hole where the puller will thread.  Grade 8 hardware may not be necessary here, but I wasn't sure  how much force would be required to make the split when I built this thing.  It turned out to be easy.

3)  Place the flywheel nut onto the e-shaft until its surface is raised slightly above the end of the shaft.  This way, the 1" thick steel plate is laying flat against the nut without touching the end of the e-shaft.

4)  Thread the grade 8 blot into the e-shaft as far as it will go and then rotate the steel plate into position over the flywheel nut.  Use the nuts on both sides of the thick steel plate to tighten the steel plate down firmly against the flywheel nut.  This puts the two parts of the e-shaft under traction.

5)  Hit the thick steel plate solidly with a hammer 2-3 times.  Then add more traction using the nuts on either side to the steel plate and strike it again.  Repeat until the shaft splits apart.  I only had to add more traction one time and it popped apart easily on the 4-5th hammer blow.  The flywheel nut was not damaged and neither was the e-shaft or e-shaft threads.  I replaced my flywheel nut anyway for safe measures.

Hope this helps!!
I'll look for more pics that might help also.
Don

 
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