> > > Bill, here is something that might work even better. Same size rad.
 > > >  16 by 22 by 2.5. The inlet scoop area is 15 by 5.
 > > >
 > > >  Rotate it 90 degrees in the vertical axis and put the inlet duct
 > > >  on top. Use venetian blind cowl flaps on the bottom.
 > > >  When the flaps are open the back of the rad then becomes totally
 > > >  unobstructed. When closed of course you get external diffusion
 > > >  ahead of the scoop and the consequent streamlining.
 > > >
 > > >  The inlet duct length gives room for a K&M style curve.
 > > >  A incidental advantage is it shields the rad from the exhaust heat
 > > >  radiation automatically. Should fit in the stock cowl.
 > > >  Although the bottom of the airplane is generally higher pressure
 > > >  the pressure is always lower behind a cowl flaps.
 > > >
 > > >  Paul Lamar
 >
 > > Nice set of ducts, I'll take a look at the cowl next time I'm at the
hanger.
 > > I am still somewhat uncomfortable with the side exhaust with an
unpressurized
 > > airplane.  most homebuilts that I have flown in are drafty, including
the KIS
 > > due to a pretty small seal area on the door flange. I know the stream

is

 > > mixing with a lot of air, but having it go out the bottom seems better
to me.
 > >  I have determined that there is a real nice area for side cowl flaps
for
 > > exit air between the top and middle tripod tubes.
 > >
 > > Bill Schertz
 > > KIS Cruiser #4045
 >
 > Well since the rad is enclosed and shielded  by the duct you can

probably

wiggle
 > a couple of exhaust pipes back down and under along the left side of the
 > nose gear behind the rad. I'll see if I can do it in 3D. I forgot....
 > are you doing a turbo or NA?
 >
 > BTW the aero bending load on those venetian blind cowl flaps is
considerable
 > so they should be carbon fiber on either side of 1/4 inch high density
 > foam or plywood.
 >
 > Paul Lamar

 Plenty of room. Three inch square down pipe. The rad scoop is a bit
 too narrow at 10 inches. Needs to be 15 inches to get the required
 area.

 Paul Lamar

Bill, here is something that might work even better. Same size rad.
 16 by 22 by 2.5. The inlet scoop area is 15 by 5.

Damn your fast with that program!  The first message proposing snaking the
exhaust was at 10:40pm (central) and the second with the drawing was at
2:16AM. Is it really that easy to use?

Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045

Once the light lights in your brain about how to do
things it is supper fast. Also much of what I have learned over the
past 15 years about ACAD is applicable. I only use about 15% of the 
Rhino capabilities and I am still learning. I start a course in 3D drawing
and stereo lithography on the 19th at the local college.

One trick I learned a long time ago with ACAD is modify your old drawings
and save them as new versions. Also what you put together in Rhino you 
can take apart and change one or two parts and quickly put them back together.

Paul Lamar
 
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