"Brian D. Cain" wrote:

Tracy, I've had a bit of not good luck w/ the heat shrink
wrap around the tension bolts on Tony's engine here.  The

problem I

believe

has
to do w/ thickness of the tubing; I can heat-shrink wrap each

tension bolt

twice
over, overlapping by about 3/4" to 1" on both layers, and get

the

bolt in,

but the
added snugness of the bolt against the centre iron housing is

making

it

somewhat
difficult to get the threads to line up on the front iron

housing so

the

bolt screws
in.  I've got 15 of 18 in currently and am having to back 3 of

them

out to

either
re-do the heat-shrink or remove it all together and do the RTV

alone

trick.

B

        Brian,

          You might try running a thread die up the threads then

chucking the

 bolt in a lathe and turning a slight taper to the end of bolt. Then

back off

 the die to clean up and straighten the threads. This might make it

easier to

 start the bolt IMHO.

        Kelly Troyer

I didn't have a problem like this when I did my engine but Kelly's idea
sounds good if you do.
Being a bit less "formal", I'd probably just bevel the end of the bolt

by

twirling it on my belt sander.   No die cleanup needed this way.

Tracy Crook
tcrook@rotaryaviation.com
www.rotaryaviation.com

-"Brian D. Cain" wrote:

It's probably in all honesty my fault, then, as I may've used some heat
shrink
tubing that was too wide, hence, not "curing" all the way around the bolt,
leaving
some loose areas.  I'll have to investigate a bit further as I get these
three
problematic ones out and then back in.  Thanks for the tips!

B- 

The late stock bolts have only a short piece of heat shrink tubing
near the center where the grooves are. This is enough to damp
the primary resonant frequency of the bolt.

Paul Lamar
 
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