All I have ever heard about after market oil coolers is that they
 > >  > will not stand up to the pressures the rotary produces.  I have been
 > >  > trying to recall the oil cooler set up on the Star Mazda's to no
 > >  > avail.  I don't think they were using the stock coolers but I may
 > >  > have them confused with something else.  Does anybody know of a well
 > >  > built, small oil cooler that would handle the pressure?     Lynn,
 > >  > are you using the stock cooler?   Jerry

 >        Never seen a stock cooler. I use three Setrab coolers. Never a
problem.
 >        Lynn E. Hanover

 Do you mean it takes three Setrab's to equal one stock cooler Lynn? :-)

    Sorry, I missed this question.

 I don't know. I think the Pole sitter RX-3 of Mr. Pinnigar has a stock
cooler below the aluminum radiator but I did not make a point of looking at
it. His radiator and induction system are beautifully custom ducted in
fiberglass. I assume his oil radiator is below the water radiator and might
well be the stock unit. My three Setrabs are not ducted at all and are an
attempt to get the oil below 160 degrees. Mr. Drummond says that substantial
HP is lost with the oil temp higher than 160. That is with 40 WT Redline. For
next year I hope to have much better thought out systems of ducting for
everything using your car top data.

My God!!!!....get back he has an unlicensed fully automatic plywood assault
box on top of his van......

  If you catch me in (the peoples republic of) California, just shoot me. I
have gone mad.

Both water oil and induction systems. Even with a poor installation, the
highest oil temps on a hot (98) degree day has been 210
and water 180. When the engine is being used hard it is shifted at 9,300 RPM.
and the heat shows up as oil temp. If the driver backs off to 9,000 RPM the
temp falls quickly to 190 degrees. The water is not affected by different
loads, or at least not enough to notice.

The water radiator is just a bit larger than required for the HP we have
right now.

Paul Yaw was at the track and I got to complain to him about not updating his
web site. We await the next installment in his series and he claims he is too
busy.

He was saying he has 260 HP in the engine he was caring for in another Mazda
in GT-3. That would be through a 48IDA with 38MM chokes. I would like a look
inside of  that one. I did pick up several ideas that were working for Mazdas
in GT-3 and GT-2.
If my carb has no guts in it and flows fuel all the time, is it still carb
rules or is it dribble fuel injection like a Continental and should be under
the fuel injection rules?

Another sticky wicket for the rule makers. Show me a poorly written rule and
I'll drive around it in an hour. It is part of the challenge. Drummond and
Yaw both oil the crank from both ends but Drummond leaves the dowel gallery
open and yaw plugs it.

So I was thinking that Stacy Wilson runs a dry sump with only one scavenge
pump section. That seems to work just fine.

Maybe I should convert one of my scavenge sections to a pressure section to
feed the rear end and use the stock pressure relief. And use the pressure
section of the pump only on the front half and block the dowel gallery. I
could run 90 to 100 pounds on both ends with any amount of volume the bearing
clearance determines. With a single pressure section and 16/32 pulleys I have
trouble maintaining 80 PSI. (A Peterson pump for a small block) With racing
bearings pressure is a problem. I could get a bunch back by going back to
stock main bearings. I have never lost a stock, or a racing main bearing.
A winter of brainstorming starts now.
Lynn E. Hanover

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