The second thing to watch out for is don't nick the
rotor wall between the two scraper rings when you remove them.
Very very important!!
Paul Lamar

Paul,
Do you mean that when you take out the oil scraper rings and springs (3
on each side of each rotor) that you not gouge the ends where they lay
in the groves of the rotor?
I had to DIG some of those out on some engines. Using an old broken and
scrap scraper I had to DIG the grove out mercilessly (even after soaking
the rotor in carbon cleaner) to get that grove scrupulously clean as
required. I don't think it is too easy to gouge that inner wall in the
ci rotor.

[Marc Wiese]

Those are not the ones I am talking about. They are called the side seals.

It is this wall that both inner and outer oil O-rings seal
against. If you nick it it is hard to get the new teflon
O-ring to pass the nick. Not to mention a minor oil leak.

If you do, you can fix it with a jeweler's file and perhaps
wind up with a minor oil leak.

BTW notice how close the oil O-rings are to the combustion chamber.
That is why you want to use the highest temp oil O-rings money can buy.

Paul Lamar

"Brian D. Cain" wrote:

I still have a question of the long-term viability of the teflon jacketting
around
the silicone core.  As I've mentioned before and from what I've gathered,
silicone isn't
the best resistor of oil by and large and tends to deteriorate rather
quickly when
immersed in it.  If the teflon jacket is impervious to oil yet deteriorates
over time,
how efficacious will this type of TES (vs. say an encapsulated viton) o-ring
be at
sealing whatever it's sealing if it's in a dynamic oil environment, such as
being used for
inner and outer oil control ring o-rings?  I'm still a firm believer in this
technology
but am a bit weary about this one aspect -- I wonder if Viton may be a
better type
of encapsulation core to use instead of silicone for oil control ring
o-rings...

B

I boiled one in oil and it did not seem to bother it.
I think you were off the list at the time.

Paul Lamar
 
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