The second thing to watch out for is don't nick the
rotor wall between the two scraper rings when you remove them.
Very very important!!
Paul Lamar

Paul,
Do you mean that when you take out the oil scraper rings and springs

(3

on each side of each rotor) that you not gouge the ends where they

lay

in the groves of the rotor?
I had to DIG some of those out on some engines. Using an old broken

and

scrap scraper I had to DIG the grove out mercilessly (even after

soaking

the rotor in carbon cleaner) to get that grove scrupulously clean as
required. I don't think it is too easy to gouge that inner wall in

the

ci rotor.

[Marc Wiese]

Those are not the ones I am talking about. They are called the side

seals.

It is this wall that both inner and outer oil O-rings seal
against. If you nick it it is hard to get the new teflon
O-ring to pass the nick. Not to mention a minor oil leak.

If you do, you can fix it with a jeweler's file and perhaps
wind up with a minor oil leak.

BTW notice how close the oil O-rings are to the combustion chamber.
That is why you want to use the highest temp oil O-rings money can

buy.

Paul Lamar

Ah, yessss-the "oil control rings" (I think that is what Mazda calls
them) you mean. Yes, I can see where that might be a problem. The ring
is housed in a metal ring pressed into those two depressions in the
rotors and fits against one side of the rotor. Still, I think it would
be difficult to nick the inside of that grove that the ring slides
against. Those grooves don't collect that much carbon and gook and
usually clean up easily. There are 2 on each side of each rotor.
BTW, I have used Hayes Teflon o ring sets (all the rings) for years
when I rebuild an engine and have had NO problems.

[Marc Wiese]

 
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