> >>After comparing prices and features, I bought some of the GM Weather Pack
connectors. The first
> >>thing I will say about them is that they are BIG. The 6-pin connector (flat,
in-line) is about 2"
> >>wide, and the two ends connected are about 2 3/4" long. Also they are made for
automotive wiring
> >>with the thick insulation, so the wire entrance seals won't seal around anything
less than about
> >>#16 wire with Tefzel insulation. They make a #22 wire look tiny.
> >>
> >>But they will work; they are about half the cost of the more compact round
connectors, and they
> >>have removable pins (an important feature for me because I'll need to take some
connectors off
> >>again after the dyno run to feed them through the firewall).
> >>
> >>For a small number of these you can do the wire crimping with a needle nose pliers.
For small
> >>gauge wires you'll want to solder as well.
> >>
> >>When you buy the connectors, they come carded with the seals and pins included.
Very convenient
> >>packaging
> >>
> >>Al
> Al,
>
> There's a big red flag in the post above. Crimping a connector with anything
> other than the tool designed for that connector will likely get you a failure at
> the worst possible moment.
>
> I have no desire to start a flame war about the merits of crimp vs. solder, but
> please, if you don't want to invest in the tool, solder everything.
>
> Charlie England (electronics tech in a former life)
Good point. With skill and care you can make a good crimp with a needlenose, but not
likely as good as with the specific crimper. I also did a very careful solder job on
every lead making sure it didn't wick up the wire. The pins have a crimp that goes
around the end of the insulation as well, and then the seals are behind that; so the
wires are well supported.
Al
Al if you turn off your html I think your messages will be less
garbled.
Paul Lamar
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