Subject: Fiber composite primer.
From: ACRE NL
Date: 3/5/2003, 10:44 AM


My hangar buddy Steve Wolpin owner of a nice Long Eze turned
me on to this stuff. It is the greatest thing for filling
the rough stuff and super easy to use. Bake it at
140 F for 30 minutes using a heat lamp. It will air harden
if the temp is over 75 F.

Water based gray primer.  Dupont 210 S
When you get it there is a bunch of thick goop in the bottom
of the can. I used a bent welding rod in my drill press
to mix it. Other wise it will take you a half hour.

Converted me from a reluctant and apprehensive world class
composite klutz to an air show winner........

I'm exaggerating of course :)

Paul:

What?  You exaggerate?  Never!  Especially about EAA:)

A few questions:  This DuPont 210 S--is it Polyester based?
Vinyl-ester?
Epoxy?  Two Part or One?

How does it perform in filling pinholes?  Short term?  Long term?  In
other
words, does it settle slowly into the glass fabric and expose the
fibreglass
weave pattern through the paint five or ten years down the road?

Does it include UV protection?  If not, you'll need additional primer
for
this.

You imply that it sands easily.  How many coats does it require over
fiberglass????

Tom Parkes

I don't know what it is made out of. What ever it is it is water
soluble. Not good at filling pin holes. I wish I knew the answer to pin
hole.

It is real thick so you might be able to use only one coat. It is easy
to sand. Particularly wet sand so that is probably the wrong thing to
do.

I don't know the answer to your other questions. I am new to composite
finishing
work. Back in the days I was designing fiberglass bodies all the
finishing details
were of no concern to me. The gup shop handled that. I did get a few
complaints
when we went to vacuum bag and four ounce cloth as far as pin holes we
concerned.

Paul Lamar


The best solution I've found to pinholes, don't laugh anyone,  is to
spray on primer, thick and runny,
and massage it in with your fingers.  This of course necessitates
sanding it down to flush again
and re-priming to get the smooth surface.

Wet sanding the water based stuff leaves you with raised areas, due to
absorption,  in the shape of the water runoff,
extremely frustrating, so if you use it, dry sand only.

Chris

 
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