Ed Anderson wrote:

Hi Paul,

    Here are several photos of my new intake system (still in

the works

as

you can see).  Decided to try using thin wall (.058) tubing

rather than

pipe. Have 1 1/2" OD tube for primary and 1 5/8"  OD for

secondary.

  SNIP

I used a new "2nd" generation

brazing/soldering rod that requires no flux and is the easiest

to

use by

far.

As you can see, plenty of room for the turbo to see on top of

its

manifold

thanks to your low profile casting.

P.S have not forgotten about the data collection.  Had to

reorder the

GPS

cable from Garmin as mine turned out to have a defect.  Should

be in

shortly.

Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson@carolina.rr.com

I was wondering when someone would try the flange :) Good idea but
extra work of course. I busted my buns trying to get that manifold
in there between the stock turbo and the block :)

Sorry about the bolt hole breakouts. Looks like you will need
small aluminum blocks tig welded on in those areas
adjacent to those bolt holes. Fixed on the next batch.

Paul Lamar

Yes, a bit more work, but given my motor mount, not certain I could

wiggle

in a one piece intake.  No problem on the bolt hole breakout - only

one

brokeout and that is a piece of cake to fix - compared to trying to

weld up

a tube arrangement to a flange, but 1/4" more cast material on that

edge

wouldn't hurt {:>).  That new brazing alloy is suppose to be good

for

building up broken flanges, so we'll give it a try.

Ed

Ed, what's the name on that brazing rod.  I'd like to pick some up and

play

with it.

Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode

Mike, the aluminum brazing rod is called HTS-2000.  It does not require flux
and is called a "2nd generation" rod.

Here is the web site. http://www.newtechnologyproducts.net/more_info.htm

The stuff is not cheap, but I was very impressed with it.  I have tried
using some of the aluminum "brazing" rods from several different sources and
was always disappointed.  Might well, have something to do with my lack of
skills as a "welder", but this stuff works just like they claim.  I found
that if you "tinned" both parts you want to join first, it works even
better.  Now, I am working on making it look pretty as well.  They recommend
brushing the molted metal once you get it to that state with the stainless
steel brush they include.  That appears to be an important step as I tried
it both ways and brushing (or tinning both parts first) is crucial.  Only
problem was - I set on fire the wooden handled brush several times, so need
to find some additional brushes {:>).  You need one of the high output
propane burners nozzels - but, that and one of the small -throw away- 14 oz
bottles of propane will do the job.  I had several nozzels and it takes a
big one that throws out a lot of BTU to do it.  Also, be careful as the big
propane burners call actuall reach the molten point of the aluminum tube -
fortunately found that out on some scrap.

The stuff costs something like $450 for 5 lbs of rods, but they have a
promotional offer of 1 lbs plus their video on how to use it for $65.  Like
I said, not cheap, but its the only one I've ever found that works for me.
I think it would be very difficult to weld the thin wall (0.058)  6061 to a
heavy flange, but this works just fine.

Ed Anderson

A agree. It sure would be tough to tig weld .058 to 3/8 al alloy plate.

Ed Klepeis mentioned that when we discussed welding my 
intercooler and he does some of the finest tig welding aluminum
stuff I have ever seen.

That's why we are sticking with .120 wall tubing bends.

Paul Lamar
 
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