I certainly agree, Paul.  If welding, the 0.120 tubing is the route to

go.

I am on a weight reduction kick to get my overweight RV-6 slimmed down a

bit

and the intake is the place I am starting. I didn't pay enough attention

to

the ounces and they became pounds {:>).  Then perhaps an electric gyro

(or

one of the solid state ones) to elminate the need for that 9 lb smog

pump I

use as a vacuum source.  Then perhaps reverting to one battery rather

than

the two I have been carrying for 200 hours saving another 17 lbs, etc.

Ed

How do they rate that brazing rod strength. Have you tried
brazing a couple of pieces of scrap together and then bending
it back and fourth to see how the joint holds up? That is the
big question in my mind. I am all for it if it works as it sounds
ideal for radiator header tanks where you don't want to apply
a lot of heat. What is the melting temperature?

Paul Lamar

Too late, Paul! I already have the tubes brazed to the flange.  Took about
20 minutes to do all four tubes.  Turned out neat and clean, I send photo
later.  They also mention that is is idea for radiator repairs.  No, I have
not done what you suggested, however, the video they send show a
demonstration where two 1/2" thick bars of aluminum are butt welded at 90
deg angle and then use a sledge hammer to beat the one parallel with the
other with no give in the braze, for what thats worth.

Here are the specs they advertise for the rod

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
 Melting Point: 717°- 735°
 Tensile: 45,000 PSI
 Shear: 31,000 PSI
 Rockwell:  48
 Therm. Exp.: 15.2 x 10- 6in./in./F°
 Elongation: 10% in 2 inches Elec. Cond: 26 (% of copper std.)
 Impact: 43 Ft. lbs (charpy) S.P. Grav.: 6.6
 Weight: 0.24 lbs/cu. in.

Ed Anderson

Sounds good. 45 Kpsi is good.

Paul Lamar
 
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