Ed Anderson wrote:

Hi Paul,

    Here are several photos of my new intake system (still

in

the works

as

you can see).  Decided to try using thin wall (.058) tubing

rather than

pipe. Have 1 1/2" OD tube for primary and 1 5/8"  OD for

secondary.

  SNIP

I used a new "2nd" generation

brazing/soldering rod that requires no flux and is the

easiest

to

use by

far.

As you can see, plenty of room for the turbo to see on top

of

its

manifold

thanks to your low profile casting.

P.S have not forgotten about the data collection.  Had to

reorder the

GPS

cable from Garmin as mine turned out to have a defect.

Should

be in

shortly.

Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson@carolina.rr.com

I was wondering when someone would try the flange :) Good idea

but

extra work of course. I busted my buns trying to get that

manifold

in there between the stock turbo and the block :)

Sorry about the bolt hole breakouts. Looks like you will need
small aluminum blocks tig welded on in those areas
adjacent to those bolt holes. Fixed on the next batch.

Paul Lamar

Yes, a bit more work, but given my motor mount, not certain I

could

wiggle

in a one piece intake.  No problem on the bolt hole breakout -

only

one

brokeout and that is a piece of cake to fix - compared to trying

to

weld up

a tube arrangement to a flange, but 1/4" more cast material on

that

edge

wouldn't hurt {:>).  That new brazing alloy is suppose to be

good

for

building up broken flanges, so we'll give it a try.

Ed

Ed, what's the name on that brazing rod.  I'd like to pick some up

and

play

with it.

Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode

Mike, the aluminum brazing rod is called HTS-2000.  It does not require

flux

and is called a "2nd generation" rod.

Here is the web site. http://www.newtechnologyproducts.net/more_info.htm

The stuff is not cheap, but I was very impressed with it.  I have tried
using some of the aluminum "brazing" rods from several different sources

and

was always disappointed.  Might well, have something to do with my lack

of

skills as a "welder", but this stuff works just like they claim.  I

found

that if you "tinned" both parts you want to join first, it works even
better.  Now, I am working on making it look pretty as well.  They

recommend

brushing the molted metal once you get it to that state with the

stainless

steel brush they include.  That appears to be an important step as I

tried

it both ways and brushing (or tinning both parts first) is crucial.

Only

problem was - I set on fire the wooden handled brush several times, so

need

to find some additional brushes {:>).  You need one of the high output
propane burners nozzels - but, that and one of the small -throw away- 14

oz

bottles of propane will do the job.  I had several nozzels and it takes

a

big one that throws out a lot of BTU to do it.  Also, be careful as the

big

propane burners call actuall reach the molten point of the aluminum

tube -

fortunately found that out on some scrap.

The stuff costs something like $450 for 5 lbs of rods, but they have a
promotional offer of 1 lbs plus their video on how to use it for $65.

Like

I said, not cheap, but its the only one I've ever found that works for

me.

I think it would be very difficult to weld the thin wall (0.058)  6061

to a

heavy flange, but this works just fine.

Ed Anderson

A agree. It sure would be tough to tig weld .058 to 3/8 al alloy plate.

Ed Klepeis mentioned that when we discussed welding my
intercooler and he does some of the finest tig welding aluminum
stuff I have ever seen.

That's why we are sticking with .120 wall tubing bends.

Paul Lamar

I certainly agree, Paul.  If welding, the 0.120 tubing is the route to go.
I am on a weight reduction kick to get my overweight RV-6 slimmed down a bit
and the intake is the place I am starting. I didn't pay enough attention to
the ounces and they became pounds {:>).  Then perhaps an electric gyro (or
one of the solid state ones) to elminate the need for that 9 lb smog pump I
use as a vacuum source.  Then perhaps reverting to one battery rather than
the two I have been carrying for 200 hours saving another 17 lbs, etc.

Ed

How do they rate that brazing rod strength. Have you tried
brazing a couple of pieces of scrap together and then bending
it back and fourth to see how the joint holds up? That is the
big question in my mind. I am all for it if it works as it sounds
ideal for radiator header tanks where you don't want to apply
a lot of heat. What is the melting temperature?

Paul Lamar
 
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