Paul,

Very good point. I agree. The 3D was just a quick and dirty to show what
Butch had in mind.

That 3D stuff looks good to me !!

stiffeners. I will design it to accommodate the 3 o'clock position.

I think you should leave the starter in the 4 o'clock position. If you are

very clever

and rotate the starter just slightly you can share one of the stock

mounting bolts

with the starter bolt. It require a minor amount of grinding on the nose
of the starter to clear the teeth on the ring gear.

As good as done - I was looking at those mounting points myself, 4 o'clock
it is !!

A: The brackets would be large enough to cover the total area of the
flat sides of the bell housing. The bolts would then be near all four
corners of the rectangle. I'll draw something up.

As you know you cant cast 25 mm diameter 13mm thick mounting points on

the

sides (only the front and back, as the sides have to be tapered).
This will need to be a strip from the back to the front 13mm thick.

Correct. Good observation.

If you
want it on the back where I think it's needed most and the front it will
need to be a full panel, If it's needed on the back only it needs to be

a

full panel. If it's needed on the top, bottom and front I can cast it

in.

Just tell me where you want the mounting points and I will work it out.
How about mounting pads for the starter motor, another reason I settled

on

13mm for the full face.
I will end up doing 2 patterns, perhaps even 3, who knows!

George (down under)

See paragraph A: above. I will make a 3d.

I think we are coming to the meeting of the minds here.

 Yep - Too easy matey.

I got a phone call yesterday from one of our boys in Western Australia
discussing the need for a ridge (on the bellhousing sides) for the mounting
bracket attachment,  so that the bolt holes don't flog out.
But I'm not sure if we need one top, bottom or both ?

 Perhaps I can extend the bottom beam (Schertz beam) a little, or even bolt
to the Schertz beam by extending it past the sides - suggestions.

BTW like that mounting bracket - looks professional as well
Paul what is the weight of the current set-up, plate (with and without
pockets) Schertz beam, stand-offs.
I just want a target to shoot for - if I know what acceptable, I can ponder
different alternatives.
George (down under)

A> The top ridge won't hurt. I am not sure about the current weight. I would have to add
A> up all the spacers and the long 10 mm bolts. My guess is around 7 to 9
A> pounds without any kind of built in motor mount. We would like less of course.

A> Aluminum weighs .1 pounds per cubic inch.  Don't ask me what that is in Kg per cc's
A> as I have no idea :) That French measuring system makes about as much sense to me
A> as furlongs per fortnight.  A 305 mm square plate 13 mm thick would weigh about 7.2 pounds
A> alone. That is basically what everybody has now.

A> Paul Lamar

A> The AirCraft Rotary Engine NewsLetter.  Powered by Linux.
A> ACRE NL web site. http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/
A> Copyright 1998-2003 All world wide rights reserved.

Paul try this little program I have attached for conversion. When at
school I had to learn the imperial English system then worked on many
US design projects and had to deviate. Them came the Japanese designed
projects and I had to use metric. Then came Australia changing to
metric system and I am still going backward and forward.
Aluminium wight is 275 kg per cubic metre.
Or use area in metre x plate thickness 2.75 kg

--
Best regards,
 ddunbar                            mailto:ddunbar@echidna.id.au

OK Don thanks.

Paul Lamar
 
The AirCraft Rotary Engine NewsLetter.  Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/            
Copyright 1998-2003 All world wide rights reserved.