Del Johnso wrote:

Before I torque anymore on the nut can someone confirm that the

thread is

standard thread and not left threaded.  I tried with a 1/2" impact

wrench

and it wouldn't budge.  I'm now going the route of a breaker bar.

Thanks.

Counter clockwise to take it off looking at it from the back.

Paul Lamar

Right hand threads.
Royce

"Brian D. Cain" wrote:

You can use a prybar inbetween the rear iron plate and the back of the
flywheel as a
"home-brew" flywheel stopper if you don't want to buy the 'real

part'.  I do

this all the
time on the engines I tear down.  I also use a stout impact gun (500ft/lbs)
using a 2 1/16",
3/4" drive socket to zap it off.  Works every time!  The other method is to
use a stout
breaker bar with a cheater pipe extension and have four of your best

buddies

stand on
the engine while you take a dive on the end of the cheater pipe ... :)

Be sure to RTV the back of the flywheel nut and loctite the flywheel nut
threads during
re-installation.

B

Brian,

What's the purpose for putting RTV on the back of the flywheel nut.  Am I
the only person on this list that didn't know this?

Mark S.

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