Del Johnso wrote:

Before I torque anymore on the nut can someone confirm that

the

thread is

standard thread and not left threaded.  I tried with a 1/2"

impact

wrench

and it wouldn't budge.  I'm now going the route of a breaker

bar.

Thanks.

Counter clockwise to take it off looking at it from the back.

Paul Lamar

Right hand threads.
Royce

"Brian D. Cain" wrote:

You can use a prybar inbetween the rear iron plate and the back of

the

flywheel as a
"home-brew" flywheel stopper if you don't want to buy the 'real

part'.  I do

this all the
time on the engines I tear down.  I also use a stout impact gun

(500ft/lbs)

using a 2 1/16",
3/4" drive socket to zap it off.  Works every time!  The other

method is to

use a stout
breaker bar with a cheater pipe extension and have four of your best

buddies

stand on
the engine while you take a dive on the end of the cheater pipe ...

:)

Be sure to RTV the back of the flywheel nut and loctite the flywheel

nut

threads during
re-installation.

B

Brian,

What's the purpose for putting RTV on the back of the flywheel nut.  Am

I

the only person on this list that didn't know this?

Mark S.

Bruce T.suggests sealing the back of the flyweel nut for auto use in case
the rear seal leaks and starts getting oil on your clutch. It should not
make any difference in our application, but do use locktite.

Ron Freier

 
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