"Powell, Ken" wrote:
alventures wrote:
Some time back there was a discussion about putting the hose clamp
bead
on the ends of aluminum cooling tubes. The only thing I
recall was
that
someone said that the best thing to do was to take it to
your local
radiator shop. That seemed like all I needed to know.
Now that I want to get it done, I've called every rad shop in the
area,
and no one has the tooling to do it. Two places
suggested I call a
welding shop. The welding shop told me to try the sheet
metal shops.
Haven't done that yet, but maybe someone here has had
some experience
with this - and a solution. Suggestions appreciated.
Al
It is kind of a simple tool made on a lathe that does it.
What is the
wall thckness Al?
BTW Say "Thank you Paul. I don't know how you do it." :)
Linux O.S. and Xtree for Unix is the secret.
Paul Lamar
"Thank you Paul. I don't know how you do it." (What "it" are you
referring to?)
1 1/2" o.d., 16 guage; and 1 1/4" o.d. 18 guage. Looks
like it would
take a large sledge hammer. Now, how do you do it when the
end is close
to a 90 degree bend? (Life is so complicated.)
Al
Finding this info in my vast collection of data on my hard disk.
First I have to remember what transpired in the last five years :)
We went round and round on this problem as I recall.
Paul Lamar
AL, I've pondered this for a long time also. If I could weld aluminum I would just run a bead around the tube. But since I can't, how about the following:
1. cut a bead out of the next larger size tubing and bore for an interference fit. Heat the bead and cool the tube and slip the bead over.
2. build a bead out of JB Weld (test for strength at ~250º)
3. build a bead out of high temp epoxy and fiberglass (temp is still a possible problem)
4. Other ideas???
Ken Powell
Good idea Ken. tig weld the ring on. If the wall is thick enough you can die
grind a groove.
Here are some old messages on the subject.
*******************************************************************************************
Subject: Beading tubing. How to.
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 20:31:04 -0700
From: ACRE NL <rotaryeng@earthlink.net>
We have been knocking ourselves out for the last three years
trying to figure out how to do this for coolant tubes
and so fourth. I found this technique in an old Northrop Aeronautical
Institute A&P text book dating from 1948.
The two lower blocks are split to firmly clamp the tube around
the inner steel guide pin. This can be done with large bolts.
The whole works is put in a hydraulic press and the top block is squished
down to form the bead. A separate tool will have to be made for each size
tubing and wall thickness. But we can make one and ship it around to
those that need it. T zero tubing hardness will probably work best.
Paul Lamar
Hi all:
Yeah, all the surplus Parker tube beading kits from WWII - on have dried up -
I've been looking for quite awhile for one. I thought Earl's Supply
was making single size tube beaders now...
Regards,
James
******************************************************************************
Subject: Beading tool
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 20:45:05 -0700
From: Paul <rotaryeng@earthlink.net>
Bill has been working on a beading tool for beading aluminum tubing
for use with rubber hoses and hose clamps in rad plumbing. PL
William Adkins wrote:
Hi Paul,
Disturbing news, that is beside me trying to get this to go thru 3 times.
The beading tool will not work for the following reasons.
Forming the bead to a acceptable height stretches the material to
the point of fracture.
I tried three sizes of bearings (balls). You know the result of the first,
just too small.
Second set was trice as large but still did not force the bead high enough
and showed signs of fracture along the top of the bead.
Figured larger balls might work. Did in fact produce acceptable bead height,
but actually cut thru the material due to stretching beyond the elastic limit.
Plus the bead was very wide.
Two days shot, but at least we know for sure it will not work, at least with that
tubing.
I will return the tubing only if you need to verify my findings. 'Course I have
to get the d---- mandral out of the tube first.
By the way what is the latest on the cheaper seals? Got a engine coming apart
very soon.
Fly fast, land slow.
Bill
Don't bother to send it back Bill. Perhaps you could find
some tubing that was 0 heat treat state. I am not sure
what the heat treat on that sample of tubing I sent you was
but it seemed a bit hard.
Try McMaster Carr for teflon encapsulated silicon O-rings. Good prices.
If you don't have a catalog you need to tell them you have a
company with more than 40 employees or they won't send you one.
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