Subject: Assembly lube suggestions
From: ACRE
Date: 7/21/2003, 6:41 PM


"Brian D. Cain" wrote:
 >
 > Hey Paul et al, I realize this is a bit off topic, but do you guys have
any
 > recommendations on some good engine assembly lube that won't run all
 > over the place like motor oil?
 >
 > Thanks,
 >
 > B


Wheel bearing grease to hold the corner seals and side seals in place.
Lightly oil the rotor and main bearings. Once assembled, but with the front cover
and crank stack off, slip on the pump sprocket with a finger tight nut. Pour
motor oil into the pump pickup and turn the pump with your finger until it is
obvious that the oil pump is charged and is pumping (big oily mess). Complete
assembly. With the engine right side up, keep adding oil from a squirt can into
the rear oil passage from the filter adapter mounting hole into the rear main
bearing (and through the dowels to the front main and rotors). On installation,
fill the coolers with oil. Fill the hoses. Fill the filter can(s) and mount.
Fill the oil pan. (Very important.)

Remove the oil pressure gage hose from the gage and the spark plugs.  Spin
the engine with the starter motor and watch the gage hose for oil flow. Once
flow is verified, into a can or a rag, reconnect the gage hose, and spin the
engine to establish oil pressure.

Normal oil pressure cannot be obtained at cranking speed, but once it is
repeatable, there should be 20 to 40 pounds on the gage.

Start the engine with your good hand on the ignition switch, and your good
eye on the tach. And listen for excessive revs. Try as you might, there will be
some air in the oiling system, and the gage will jerk around for a few
seconds. Once you see steady oil pressure, put your hand on the water pump outlet and
wait for a minute to feel warming coolant. Keep doing this right up through
full temp. The pump is mounted high in the block and the pump likes to stop
pumping water every chance it gets.

Have help when you do this. While you concentrate on the water the helper
watches the oil pressure. Now shut it off and check for leaks. Listen for boiling
water. Don't wait for the water temp gage to come off the peg. Most start at
140 degrees.

Check everything over again. Check the oil level and water level. Think about
it for a while, and have a can of pop. Do it again.

The very large bearings are not at all bothered by low oil pressure, or no
oil pressure for a short time, as long as the engine is not being loaded by high
revs. My crack driver can get almost 2 miles with no oil pressure at all. A
big piece of track broke off a scavenge fitting. The rear half of the rear main
bearing died. No other damage. Of course an engine change was required just
for a look-see.

The key is to let the pump prime itself without loading the pressure side. It
will happen instantly. If you leave the system connected it may take some
time, or not happen at all. If you forget to prime the pump, with motor oil, or
hypoid, or wheel bearing grease, or Vaseline. Disconnect the far end of the
pressure out hose, tie it into the vertical and fill the hose with oil, and keep
it full for a while. The oil will creep backwards through the dry pump and
prime it for you. Reconnect the hose and repeat all of above.

We had 2nd place in the bag at the Nelson Ledges race when we ran into a
problem we had not seen before. Three sides of the air filter tray is bolted to
the chassis. One corner is clamped to the starter. We have started shifting at
9,500 RPM, and there is a resonance that is floating the air filter element
(K&N) off of the tray and it is letting crap into the jet well. The engine ran
fine for three laps, then broke up and would not pull over 6,000 RPM. after a
few laps, it ate whatever was in the air corrector and ran fine again. Air temp
for the start was 96 degrees. Water temp 175. Oil 180. Oil pressure was 95
pounds. The engine is still pulling hard at 9,500 RPMs. One pass at 9,700 on the
rev limiter. This is with 38MM chokes 190 mains, .7 airs and F-7 emulsion
tubes. The float set high enough to make the boosters drip at idle.
Finished third. Probably could have gone with 195 mains.

Lynn E. Hanover

 
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