Lynn, I know they are welded or brazed but don't they also use epoxy
 around the base of the tubes?

There is epoxy around the tubes. The first race from new the car got punted
in the left rear and turned sideways after the checkered flag. Then a steel
bodied mustang ran over the nose. A steel bodied Camero shoved my car 50 yards
sideways pushing on the door bars. We lost the hood, the left side. The nose and
the chassis from the front springs forward. The door bars worked fine. Not
even a scratch on the driver.

I found a Mustang headlight mounting ring behind the radiator.  The Griffin
was twisted like a potato chip, but not leaking. I put one corner under the
work bench with a 4X4 and some rags as padding. I put a bundle of rags under the
two down corners, and ran over the up corner with my lawn tractor. Presto, a
flat radiator with still no leaks after 5 years.

I did not see an oil radiator advertised by Griffin. I have learned that
mounting both oil and water radiators in any rigid manor just will not work for
long. They are made of aluminum and have the same short fatigue life. Lines from
both must be free to move about. It makes no sense to mount a cooler in foam
so it can move, and then clamp the hose to that cooler solid just a few inches
away. Also, the braided hoses are just  slow turning carbide bits. The
braided hose will take out a cooler or another hose or whatever it is allowed to
touch.  I can endorse Setrab oil coolers, but I have only been to 100 PSI for any
length of time with them. About 95 PSI at length. Our larger,
single stage Gerotor pump (Peterson) really hammers the lines and cooler. No
problems in 5 years. The stock pumps are two sections and rotors are shaded so
the output pressure spikes are smaller and less noisy. With stock pressures
around 75 pounds, it wouldn't take much of a cooler to stand up to that.  But I
run on as usual.
Lynn E. Hanover

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