Hi Paul,
Since my radiators are near the MM plate, I don't have the 180 deg.
bend coming out of the pump, but I have another comment about the
casting. In the orientation shown on the 3D drawings, the alternator
mount tab ends up on the bottom next to the engine. It would be
better
moved to the top outside corner.
Also on my original water pump housing the front surface of the
alternator mount tab is about 5 mm behind the front surface of the
water pump housing to provide correct alignment of the pulleys. If
you ever make any more, it would be nice to have that milled during
the machining. If I use the tab it will necessitate rotating the pump
90 degrees and giving me a 180 degree bend in the hose back to the
engine.
Bob White
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http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4
I'll give this some thought. If I ever make anymore I'l rethink the
mounting. 5 mm you say. Ok that is not much. About .2 inches.
Paul Lamar
Hi Paul,
I finally figured out how to measure the distance more accurately (with
a feeler guage). I get 0.187" +/- 0.005", (4.75 mm) for future
reference.
Bob White
**RE-SEND** per "Computer Glitch"
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http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4
The easy thing to do is space the alternator back .187.
Before you do that space the e-shaft pulley out about .25 to .5 inches
to clear the oil fitting and the crank angle sensor (if used)
with the V belts. If you go with the 93 or later system you can
do away with the crank angle sensor and trigger the ignition
with a e-shaft mag pick up.
If you mount the pump real low and tilt the pump out at about a 45 degree
angle you might be able to go around and over the alternator I think.
Either that or mount the alternator 3 inches further out board to clear
the pipe coming straight up out of the pump. I'll add an alternator to that 3D
and see what works the best.
Paul Lamar
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