<<<<snip>>>>>>

I am not sure I follow you here. If you send a sketch I can knock out a 3D.
The distance, as I recall, is 3.050 inches.

You can also buy 3" inch high channel 1-1/2" wide flanges  1/4" wall.
http://www.spicerindustries.com/metal/alumangle2.html

You could shim this to 3.050 and use it as a combined PSRU plate
spacer and as a Schertz beam. You would have to thicken it where
the rubber bushings go. You could also slot it for ring gear
clearance if necessary. I think even Tracy would like this idea :)

Paul Lamar

Is this about what you had in mind Scott? Shorter of course.

I took a look at the extrusions available and nothing looked
entirely suitable. This could be bent up out of 1/4 inch 6061 T6 sheet
if you can find a heavy duty sheet metal shop. You will need
two inch wide flanges minimum due to the off set of the right
mounting bolt. I like the idea as it makes one part do two jobs.

If it catches on I can get some made in LA.

Paul Lamar

Thanks, Paul.  This looks very close -- these 3ds are great.  
There are only a few Gooses out there that will be using a 13B, so
I don't know if there is enough need for this part to generate 
interest from a metal shop in creating custom pieces.  Probably
not, but I'll check out some shops here locally, to see if it can 
be done.  As noted below, the legs would have to be at least
6" long to get the vertical I need.

I've attached another rough sketch.  If this beam is made 
with two, overlapping 6"x3"x 0.25" angle pieces, it could use standard
extrusions.  It appears that one could  bolt to the engine and 
the other to Tracy's motor plate.  It would seem that the width
could be adjusted exactly without any problem.  The spacers would 
be sandwiched in between the vertical parts of the angles.
The overlap of two 1/4" horizontals would give 1/2" for the 
Barry mounts without adding any spacers.

The middle part of the two horizontal angles could be bolted 
together.  On the engine side, I need about 3" high to attach any
more than one bolt, plus 3" clearance for the oil pan, etc.  
Obviously the upper/middle of the vertical on this side will need
to be cut back to clear the flywheel.  Even with 3" on the engine 
block side, there are only two existing bolts without creating
additional dowels, holes, or using the oil pan bolt holes 
(and making a new oil pan).  It looks like one bolt could be threaded
into Tracy's spacer from the engine side (see drawing).  
I could make one more hard point on the other side of the block, giving
4 bolts on that angle.  Maybe this is overkill and two bolts 
are enough on one side of this "U" beam??

If more support is needed, and I had to make a new oil pan, 
then I could use a 1/4", "Z" extrusion for one side and bolt it up
to the bottom.   If I could save a lot of weight making a new 
oil pan out of aluminum, then it might be worth the cost and time
to do it this way.

On the side of Tracy's motor plate, there are more than enough 
locations for 4 or more bolts for the vertical part of this angle
-- as with your 3-d.  The angle might not need to have as much 
vertical on this side -- perhaps 1" shorter -- since there are
plenty of opportunities for bolts down low.

Does something like this also fulfil the requirements 
for this mount if I can't get a single piece version made locally?

thanks,

Scott Gettings

Can you get 6 by 3 by 1/4 extruded angle?
http://www.spicerindustries.com/metal/alumangle.html
I see 6 by 4 by 3/8 at 4.2 pounds per foot.

This type of mount so stiffens the attachment between the engine and
the PSRU plate that you can just use a spool on the left bolt.
No need to cut the spacer. This part would have universal use
as we could make long ones and people could cut them off as needed.

It is nearly impossible to bend 1/4 inch plate with
flanges much deeper than about 2 inches with a 3 inch wide channel.
It must be done on a large and powerful press break and that is just
the way it is.  Can you move the starter to one side and raise
the bridge for the rubber bushings?

You could use more than two bolts on to fasten the the motor plate to
the channel if you wished. The two existing ten mm bolts would be fine however.

You can always make your design out of separate pieces of 1/4 inch Al plate 
and tig weld them together. If you do that you will need a couple 
of ribs inside if it is 6 inches deep. Seems like a heavy way to go.

You could also just bolt a bracket to Tracy's plate around and 
underneath the starter.

Paul Lamar
 
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