I guess I was assuming that the RTV would displace a little bit of
 > anti-freeze if there was a film on the spacer plate? It is well
 > cured (about 3 months), so will probably be difficult to
 > seperate and clean up the surfaces if it is necessary to do
 > it all over again. Sure would like to hear from others that have
 > already "been there, done that"  Thanks in advance for your
 > replies.  Paul Conner, 13b powered SQ2000 almost finished.

 Be careful with that RTV Paul. If any gets in the oil system it
 could clog a critical hole. Best to use a gasket.

On the other hand, I glue engines together with 100% GE silicone. White tub
and tile caulk is nice. If your oil pickup tube has the stock screen in place,
it shouldn't hurt anything. By the time any scraps get broken down far enough
to slip through the screen, they will be removed by the filter. Keep in mind
that some may end up in the lines and coolers and never come out, but again
they will be removed before they get to the bearings, and that is all I care
about.

I am inside the engines more often than the airplane people would want to be.
So, I get to see where the silicone scraps end up. If I have a new or very
good looking pan gasket available I use it. If not, I glue the pan (a flat
plate) on to the block. Be sure all of the blind screw holes are empty. If a lump
of cured silicone is left in a hole, the screw will hydraulic lock when
tightened
and strip out or crack the cast iron near the bottom of the hole. I had one
do that after a crew member "checked" the pan screws. The center cast iron just
started seeping oil. I took out the pan screw and inserted a scrap of a fat
"O" ring, and reinstalled a shorter pan screw. Later, I epoxied the hole and
installed a stud in that location.

I would take a shot with what you have now. The worst case is that you have
to fix it. No big deal. Install a thin film of silicone, about 1/16" thick,
smooth and even. Do it quickly. Then let it gel up for 15 minutes, before
assembly. When you need it apart again, the silicone will be stuck to only one piece,
not both.

Cheep lacquer thinner is the best solvent for removal and surface prep.

Gasoline is another good solvent, in an emergency. Use it in the center of a
big damp field and stay upwind of the project. Not for use anywhere in
California.

Lynn E. Hanover

 
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