Hi, fellow rotary enthusiasts.  I am ready to install the finned
aluminum oil pan that I bought from Perry Mick.  (Great
craftsmanship)!   I am using the "sandwiched between the engine
and oil pan" style mount, similar to Tracy's, and several
others.  I recently saw a posting on the web site describing
how to do this with RTV instead of using gaskets. The posting
stated that it was important to wipe down the surfaces with alcohol,
or similar cleaner.  Unfortunately, when I mounted my
engine to the sandwich plate, I just wiped it with a paper towel.

Upon assembly, I had some anti-freeze leaking down the side of
the engine. I am concerned that I may not have a good seal. Am I
being overly cautious, or do you think that my wiping it off
with a paper towel and then slopping on the black RTV sealant
is sufficient?  I'm getting ready to mount the oil pan (also using
RTV), but if my upper seal might be comprimised, maybe I should go
through the painstaking task of seperating the engine from
the aluminum spacer and re-sealing it, using alcohol, etc?

I guess I was assuming that the RTV would displace a little bit of
anti-freeze if there was a film on the spacer plate? It is well
cured (about 3 months), so will probably be difficult to
seperate and clean up the surfaces if it is necessary to do
it all over again. Sure would like to hear from others that have
already "been there, done that"  Thanks in advance for your
replies.  Paul Conner, 13b powered SQ2000 almost finished.

Be careful with that RTV Paul. If any gets in the oil system it
could clog a critical hole. Best to use a gasket.

Paul Lamar

-"Brian D. Cain" wrote:

I prefer using Permatex Ultra Black (and only Ultra Black) for oil pan

and

front cover gasketting.  It's very hardy against oil, skins up fairly

quick,

is
very forgiving, and forms an exceptionally strong bond.  I personally

use it

everywhere that doesn't call for some form of metal crush gasket such as
lower intake manifold to engine.  The trick to keeping RTV's from

leaving

bits in the oil pan (and preventing problems clogging oil galleys as

Paul

suggested) is following the directions explicitly.  What I do, during

engine

assembly, is have the engine on a stand, flipped upside down.  I then
use brake cleaner and scotchbrite to clean the bottom of the engine

surfaces

where the oil pan will sit.  I also do the same for the oil pan itself.

I

apply
a fairly liberal layer of Ultra Black to the engine, place baffle plate

&

oil
pan down, and let cure overnight prior to flipping the engine right-side

up.

I've not one time had a problem with silicone being in the oil pickup

filter

or any oil galleys doing this method.  This also guarantees that there's

no

problems with skinning and curing due to any contaminant.

I prefer this method because some of the engines I do I somewhat
frequently tear-down (racing-type stuff) to modify or enhance.  Using
a sealant vs. a paper gasket makes the job much easier as paper gaskets
can be a real pain to get off cleanly.

Just my 2 cents!

B

 Thanks for the advice.....I was not able to sleep comfortably last night,

worrying that I need to do this right. This morning, I removed the engine
from the plane, turned it upside down, and removed the engine pan mounting
plate. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, then lightly scuffed it with 320
grit sandpaper, then cleaned it with alcohol.  I did the same to the bottom
of the engine, and the oil pan's mating surface.  I then applied Permatex
Ultra-black (that is what Dave Atkins advised me to use), then assembled
everything with the engine upside-down.  I think I must have ESP....or is
that CRS?  I feel much better after tearing it down and doing it right.
Don't need fluid leaks at altitude.  Glad to hear I did it correctly.
sincerely, Paul Conner

 
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