> > > > > >> Ken &Paul,
>> > > >> I would have to support that one hundred percent.
>> > > >> The hard shoulder bolts are needed to maintain the
free-play of the
>> planets
>> > > >> in the planetary housing - straight through bolts
would IMHO distort
>> the
>> > > >> housing.
>> > > >> George (down under)
>> > > You would have to make them shoulder bolts for sure, I
am thinking
>> > > more on the line of making an inner race/bushing with a bolt through
>> > > it so that you could tension against the housing and
anchor it to the
>> > > flange, also thinking of a steel ring for the bolts to go through to
>> > > distribute the pressure evenly so as not to distort the housing.
>> > >
>> > > Ken
>> > I don't think you would distort the six pinion cast iron version Ken.
>> >
>> > Paul Lamar
>> Ken,
>> Paul may well be right, but I like your proposal - the only
problem I have
>> with that is the size of the bolt thickness is reduced.
>> There is another problem (small one), I can't for the life of
me work out
>> how to remove the rolled spring steel pins - their deadended
and placed at
>> an angle. I can only assume to stop them coming out with
centrifugal force.
>> It's pinned only one end.
>>
>> There must be an easy way or a tool to do the job, the pin is very small
>> with a 1.5mm centre hole - if you could find something that
could go through
>> the pin and catch (hook) onto the back of it, I believe it
would pull out
>> easily.
>>
>> Mate if you find a way will you let me know!!
>>
>> BTW did I tell you that the overdrive is 2.45 - but only 4 planets.
>> George (down under)
I figure that you should be able to get a 7/16 bolt in the and
there are six of them and the Ross only had four 7/16 bolts holding
the four planet, I don't think Ross ever made a six did he.
I do like the idea of the plate as the area where the pins are is
unsupported unlike the area between the gears that have the web, just
like the idea of a 4130 plate as it gives piece of mind if nothing
else.
I have a 3 planet that I have been messing with and I just pressed
the main pin out sheering the role pin, it did rip a corner out of
the aluminum housing but I think the steel housing would hold up to
it and even if it didn't the small rip wouldn't hurt anything
especially with a 4130 plate backing it up.
You can see the rip in this photo.
Ken
Hey guys instead of ripping out those roll pins try coating a steel wire
with a diameter a little smaller than the inside diameter of the roll pin
with epoxy. Stick it in the roll pin and let it set up. Then pull it and
the roll pin out. If the roll pin is one inch long and the inner diameter
of the roll pin is .050 the force generated by a 3000 psi epoxy bond
will be 480
pounds roughly. Bond area is .050 times 3.1416 times one inch long or .16
square inches... times the 3000 psi shear strength of epoxy or 480 pounds.
Clean the roll pin out with acetone before you try to bond to it.
Not my idea. I forgot who came up with it but it is a good one.
Paul Lamar
The pins are solid, not a rool pins and housing is peened over them.
Also if you look closely in that photo you can see that it did sheer
the pins at the same time that it ripped the housing so that is why I
think that it would just sheer them on a steel housing.
Ken
The 2.85 six pinion uses roll pins. Not peened. I have one right here.
The ID of the roll pin is about .1 inch so the pull out force can be
up to 900 pounds.
BTW If you use a backup block with just the right hole size to accommodate
the pinion shaft diameter it might not rip out the aluminum planet
carrier either.
Paul Lamar
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