Jerry Bass wrote:

I hope you can see the pix of the RV6A VAM pipe.

I had to diagonal the outlet of the VAM to clear the fire wall. Now I

have

to cut the bottom off the Outlet pipe to turn it closer to the ship

centerline.

I had my neighbor wild the pipe after I took the pix. It was only Tacked

together

for the Pix.

Jerry Bass
540-932 3124

I don't know Jerry. Does not look good. The diagonal cut will add back
pressure
and defeat the whole reason for the design.

Since the front is right up against the left evap core I don't think this

is

going to work. You need a ram air supply going into the front hole.
The way you have it I would not be a bit surprised if exhaust comes out
the front hole and perhaps melt the evap core. I would not fly it.

This muffler is best used on an engine with wide front motor mounts and a
radiator
mounted horizontally under the engine. In fact there is little room for it
on
most tractor engine installations because the engine is too close to the
firewall.
The tail pipe must then make too sharp of a bend so it does not hit the
firewall.

It is best used on a pusher. I think you should stop right here and give
up.
I am sure there are some pushers guys out there that would be glad to give
it
a try with a straight tail pipe.

I think you should try a conventional tangential muffler with the down

pipe

coming out of the middle like the second sketch. I am sure Ed or Jerry can
build
you one. Save this one as is for a pusher guy.

Paul Lamar

Paul,

Looking at this design, it looks like it would fit well in a Glass Goose.
The tailpipe could go up, to the side, or even straight back.

Scott Gettings

Yes it would Scott. Flip it around so the tail pipe comes out towards
the back of the engine. How far are you from flying? I would like
to test it on a pusher that is flying or close to flying. Ken comes
to mind with his Coot. Amphibians are ideal for testing things as
you can fly over the river and put it down at any time.

Paul Lamar


Paul,

Unfortunately it will be a while before I'm flying, as work keeps getting
in the way of building my plane!  Right now I'm working on the engine
installation, as we previously worked out.  I still need a redrive and all
instruments.  Not too much airframe work left.

Once I get the engine mounted, I'll be working on the cooling.  The Goose
has a huge air intake in its engine cowling -- far more than is needed for
the engine.  The excess air is diverted back through the pylon into the
prop.  There is enough room for a well-ducted front radiator (sitting at an
angle), as well as a full-size oil cooler.  I'll be sending drawings as I
get nearer this phase.

We previously discussed the options for an exhaust outlet in this
upper-cowled engine.  The stock 0-320 pipes go straight up, which helps the
water-transmitted noise.  With the VAM, would up, side or straight back
into the prop (with temperature monitors) be best for the exhaust pipe?

Fortunately, I live on the intercoastal waterway on the east coast of
Florida, which is 2 miles wide and hundreds of miles long. I can test all
day long on or off the water as long as the wind isn't causing too much
chop.

Scott
Melbourne, FL

 
The AirCraft Rotary Engine NewsLetter.  Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/            
Copyright 1998-2003 All world wide rights reserved.