> > Ben Baltrusaitis wrote:
     > >
     > > Hi everyone,
     > >     I'm looking at buying a 1987 RX-7 hatchback. It has some rust on
     > the rocker panels. It was setting for 7 months for sale, but it did
     > start. Unfortunately,
     > > it was started before I got there so I don't know how hard that was. I
     > do know the battery was and is dead. There may be a short as the battery
     > wasn't
     > > supposed to be very old, but it won't hold a charge. I have a test
     > meter.
     > > Motor sounds smooth, although there is an exhaust leak or a cracked
     > manifold where the pipe bolts to the manifold.
     > > There is a toggle switch on the left lower dash that must be turned on
     > to supposedly operate the fuel pump???? It was rigged-as the wires come
     > out of the
     > > engine compartment, over the fender and then through the door opening,
     > with no holes drilled.
     > > The oil gauge doesn't work, although the owner didn't know it! (How
     > can you drive a car and not know the oil pressure gauge shows zero?)
     > > I'm thinking its going to need some major electrical repairs.
     > > Also, I saved an e-mail that talked about gotchas on an '86 (Hans
     > Conser). Seems the exhaust is very expensive on that. Am I correct in
     > assuming that the '87
     > > exhaust is just as expensive?
     > > In any case, the guy is down to 700 bucks and I plan to buy it on
     > Tuesday. I would appreciate any comments.
     > > Thanks very much!
     > > Ben

     "Weinstock, Rob" wrote:
     >
     > I would pass on this one.
     >
     > The fuel pump toggle switch indicates that either the fuel injectors are
     > leaking, or the compression on the engine is low. A properly running car
     > does not need this feature.
     >
     > Exhaust systems for these cars are very expensive. $700 for quality
     > Y-pipe and rear mufflers would be a good price, not including
     > installation or catalytic converters.
     >
     > If the car drives OK, have a buddy follow you on a test drive. Rev
     > engine to red-line. It should pull smoothly all the way. Then, suddenly
     > lift the accelerator pedal. If your buddy reports a cloud of white or
     > blue smoke, then engine is pretty worn, and would need a rebuild.
     >
     > Check all electrical functions. During the drive is a great time to
     > check for suspension and handling problems, and to see how the
     > transmission shifts or whines.
     >
     > In general, these are nice cars to own when they're cream puffs, and a
     > major drag when they are worn down.
     >
     > Regards,
     >
     > Rob

Ben Baltrusaitis wrote:

Looks like from what Hans and Rob say, it's a good car to pass on. I haven't driven it yet and won't be able to legally drive on the street because of expired
inspection and tags. Maybe if I can get it for $300 or so it would be worth having a rotary to play with before I get one in my plane.
I was hoping to get it fixed up and drive in a couple SCCA events. I'm supposed to look at it again tomorrow. I'll see how low he will go.
Thanks for the advice--which saved me many dollars!
Ben

 
The AirCraft Rotary Engine NewsLetter.  Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/            
Copyright 1998-2003 All world wide rights reserved.