If you use hose and hose clamps for your cooling plumbing you
should take a look at this. This silicone rubber hose is about
a dollar a foot at McMaster Carr but it is about the best you can
buy. I also bought some Breeze constant torque heavy duty hose
clamps. This silicone hose is quite soft so a SS liner is needed in
the
hose
clamp to prevent the hose from extruding through the worm gear slots.
The constant torque feature means the clamp can expand and contract
slightly as the aluminum hose barb expands and contracts when
it warms up and cools down. The washers are actually Belleville
springs
back to back. The Breeze part number is CT-200L.
McMaster Carr part #5281K-17. I bought a box of ten for about $34.
Well worth it. Not as good as AN but then again it will flow more
coolant with less pressure drop. 1-1/2" or AN -24 is hard to find
and real stiff. AN-20 is only 1-1/4" ID probably adequate but still
stiff. AN -20 also requires a lot of tig welding aluminum.
It does not pay to nickel and dime the coolant plumbing. A coolant
system
failure can bring you down just as fast as a broken crankshaft
if we had crankshafts which we don't. So we don't need to worry about
that :)
Paul Lamar
Good info Paul. That was my plan too. P-51 had the same setup with
aluminum
tubing and short hose sections triple clamped. Double clamped and safety
wired clamps together will do for us, I hope.
Bulent
Joe Hull wrote:
Anyone want to share the expense of an Earl's beader for 1 1/2" aluminum
tube? I'm using short sections of rubber and clamps too, but I want to
bead
the ends of the aluminum tube and can't find anyone in the area with a
beader.
Joe Hull
Cozy MkIV #991 (working on Engine & Cowling & Finishing)
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/JoeHull/index.html
Where are you Joe? If you send your tube to Ed Klepies I think he can do it
for you.
Paul Lamar
Joe Hull wrote:
I'm in the Seattle area.
One other question: I happened to find an automotive hose at the local auto
parts store that is perfect when cut into 3 different pieces. I was thinking
about beefing it up using the technique Paul Lamar described last fall for
making hoses. I am going to create some RTV-Fiberglass-RTV strips and wrap
them around the auto hose. I figured that would provide a significant
reduction in pressure bulge, and burst risk.
Your thoughts?
Thanx,
Joe Hull
Cozy MkIV #991 (working on Engine & Cowling & Finishing)
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/JoeHull/index.html
*********************************************************************
Subject: Making custom hose
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:36:52 -0700
From: ACRE <rotaryeng@earthlink.net>
Organization: ACRE
I needed some custom size thin wall hose for connecting the various
parts of my tunable intake manifold so I decided to make some.
Most hose comes in 1/4 increments and I was using pipe
instead of tubing.
Step 1 cut the form out of plastic pipe the right size.
Step 2 wrap the pipe form with 10 or more layers of
thick (3 mil) clear plastic. Hold in place with
scotch tape.
Step 3 wrap with one layer of teflon tape sticky side out.
Part number 3M Permacel P421 3/4
Step 4 wrap with one layer of red silicone tape.
Part number Versaitek Moxness 603 1 inch red sticky side out.
Step 5 cut two layers of fiberglass tape.
Step 6 wet out the two layers of precut fiber glass tape
with red RTV between layers of clear plastic. Strip off
the plastic and wrap the saturated fiberglass around the form.
Step 7 finish wrap one layer of red silicone tape sticky side
down.
It takes longer to describe the process than actually doing
it.
What you now have is high quality, fiberglass reinforced, teflon
lined high temp hose.
Paul Lamar
The AirCraft Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/
Copyright 1998-2003 All world wide rights reserved.
******************************************************************
The AirCraft Rotary Engine NewsLetter. Powered by Linux.
ACRE NL web site. http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/
Copyright 1998-2003 All world wide rights reserved.