Bob White wrote:

Hi Russell,

That's pretty much the way I built mine, but you only need one
jam nut. If one end can't turn, the other one can't either.  I
also drilled out a nut and welded it to the center of the rod.
 That
lets me turn the rod with a wrench.

I suggested two jam nuts (one at either end) simply from a belt
& suspenders point-of-view.

Good idea on welding the hollow nut to the center of the rod.

I looked high & low for either a pre-threaded rod or a long
coupling nut(with left- and right-hand threads) but couldn't
find one.  I even considered a large turnbuckle. Bill Schertz's
photo shows exactly the sort of thing I was hunting.  Where did
you get it, Bill?

Russell Kent

Bob White wrote:

Hi Russell,

I had the rod made at a local machine shop.  Then after Paul advised
me to change the tie rods brackets, I built new brackets that made
the rod too long.  So, I cut the right hand thread end off and
threaded it with a tap.  (I don't have a LH tap.)

The attached photo with the aluminum pieces is my initial mockup.
The second photo shows the final rear bracket made out of 4130.

Bob White

--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (soon)

Wow that really looks cannon proof. How thick is that 4130 Bob?

Paul Lamar

The square tubing is 2 X 2 X .065, the tabs and side pieces are 2 X 1/4.

Bob White

--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (soon)

No chance of that breaking. Not everybody is fortunate to have those
convenient ears on the front cover to bolt through. Looks good Bob. 

Paul Lamar
 
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